These are nice. I make sure the swingarm has no dents or dings where the bushings go and clean the rust out with coarse sandpaper. The new bushings go in with finger pressure.

If the plastic ones from the factory lasted 50 years then these bronze ones should last 500.

 

 

I finally got the old bushings out.  It was less fun than I anticipated.

Before I could get started, I jury-rigged a brace to hold the swing arm while I worked on the bushings.  It ain't pretty, but it did the job:

 

I tried the washer technique first, but I couldn't get the washer to rotate inside the tube.  I assumed that the swing arm tube was a uniform diameter from one side through to the other.  Based on that assumption, I sized the washer based on the diameter of the bushing.  I assumed wrongly.

I ground the edges of the washer again until I could finally get it to rotate flat against the bushing.  I used a bar clamp in an attempt to press the bushing out, but it wouldn't budge.

 

I switched to the second technique and cut three grooves in the bushing in the hope that I'd be able to split it.  That didn't work as well as I'd hoped, but I applied heat and was eventually able to pull the bushing out.  When I finally got the first bushing out, I was able to see that the ends of the tube had been machined to a larger inside diameter to accommodate the bushings.  The center section of the tube has a smaller inner diameter and that's why the washer wouldn't rotate into position on the first attempt.

 

On the second bushing I started by cutting the same pattern of grooves and applying heat.  Using the same technique, I could not pull the bushing out.  When the outer rim of the bushing was almost completely torn away, I went back to the washer technique and was able to use a mallet to tap the bushing out.  I'm guessing that all of the prior twisting and pulling loosened the bushing just enough.

 

After cleaning the inside of the tube I could see there was a fair amount of corrosion under the bushings.  I suspect that's why the bushings were so difficult to remove.

I have to do a little more research, but I'm thinking of using a brake cylinder hone to remove the corrosion.  If anyone has any experience with that, please share.

I purchased OEM replacement bushings before I knew brass bushing were available.  If I were making that decision today, I'd go with brass.  As it is, I'll press on with the OEM bushings I already have and let someone else sort that out on the next restoration (I won't be around that long).

Now it's off to the powder coating shop.

My thanks to everyone for your advice and suggestions.  I hope this information is helpful to those who still have this task ahead.

Mark

 

Nice job, thanks for update and pics.

If you want to save a headache, make sure they don't powdercoat the area the bushing go in.

Not looking forward to that job with nylon bushes if i need to in the future but great you got there in the end--well half way there. Hope replacing them goes smoother. How is the condition of the inner's or have you got new ones of those too.

knock them out with a length of copper tube

Thanks for updating and your story....very helpful!
 

For 1971DT250 . . .

I'm rethinking the brass bushing option, so I went to the TC Bros web site to investigate.  They provide a short list of applications, but the list doesn't include the DT3.

I sent the following message to TC Bros:
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I have a 1973 Yamaha DT3 and I need to replace the swing arm bushings.  One of the guys on the "Vintage Yamaha Enduro Fans" web site recommended your bushing, #112-0005.  I checked your listing for those bushings and it does not include the DT3.  However, when I checked a couple of OEM parts lists, I found these part numbers for the bushing:

1973 Yamaha DT3   -  90386-22018-00
1973 Yamaha TX500 - 90386-22102-00
1973 Yamaha TX650 - 90386-22018-00
1973 Yamaha TX750 - 90386-22102-00

The DT3 part number matches the TX650 in your listing, but not the TX500 or the TX750 that are also included in the same list.

Can you provide any clarification regarding the part number discrepancy?
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I sent the message three days ago, but TC Bros hasn't responded.  Can you confirm that the TC Bros bushing #112-0005 is an exact fit for the DT3?

Thanks for your help.

Mark
 

Yamaha used the same size bushings in many bikes...  they sometimes had subtle differences...  like smooth inside or different design of grooves.  They have superseded part numbers many times. 

RD bushings and there are even Kawasaki bushings work too....  bronze bushing and even needle bearings can be found and made to work.

www.z1enterprises.com/yamaha-xs650-swing...dle-bearing-kit.html

Thanks Mark.  I'm also looking at the HVCcycle offerings.  Their version of bronze bushings are more than twice the price, but they include the DT3 in their list of applications.  I don't if there's any difference in quality, so I don't know if it's worth the extra money. 

It's your money.  You might order them and find out the HVC ones come in TC Bros packaging.  (Or maybe stuff like that only happens to me?) 

Some people have used the MikesXS bronze bushings...  they don't show DT3 either. 

1971DT250 has found the best price for a set I've seen and he's used them.  I wouldn't hesitate to follow his recommendation.