Sure sounds like a good time to get into cable replication…. I see there are places that sell the housing and cables separate.. then to get/make some jigs for the various ends one encounters…
I’ve got 2 old bikes that everything is froze up.. they would be good cadavers…
Sneezles61

nice job with the pump!
I am into rebuilding these now and have developed a special set of tweezers to hold the pins into the overrun clutch when re-assemling.  Also got a process down to rebuild one whereby I flush out the override clutch without taking the ring gear off with BBQ lighter fluid for ones that looks nice and clean 

Thanks.  Close, but no cigar.

If you expand the pic you can see the semi circular hairline crack in the end of the housing.  I dunno how I missed it.  I likely dismissed it as a casting mark.

It was quite the shock seeing the housing end apparently moving.  I thought it was my eyes playing tricks.  It was the oil seeping out catching the light and confirmed what was happening when a blue drip formed.



 

Continued on.  Some progress, some setbacks.

Cracked pump was stoppered with JB Weld putty.  The much thinner JB Weld two pack might have been better and looked neater, but it was what I could get my hands on at short notice.

A veritable carbuncle stuck on it.  But if it works...


The 3A3 joint arrived and has duly been fitted.  If there is any difference, it may be very slightly bigger as it wanted to push the carb across on the inlet stub by a few milimeters.  Probably just the old one that had shrunk.

Airbox fitted with new airfilter and cage inside.



Transmission filled with oil and kickstart loosely fitted on the splines.  Time to check for spark at plug.

Nothing.  Where did it go?  It was a runner. 
When I fitted the stator, I gave the contacts a good rub up as the dip in the sink would have distributed oil suspended in the cleaning water across the faces.
They were working fine when I set the timing.

Plugged my pocket tester into the black wire at the main connector block and the needle was deflecting as the points opened and closed, so they are still working.
I was getting a reading of 18 ohms when they were closed and off the scale when they flicked open.  I guess this is the condenser I am reading.  Is this about right?

Checked the coil primary and secondary windings.  Both spot on.

Ran a positive from the battery directly to the coil and " flicked" it.  It gave a very feeble and intermittent spark.

Looked at the HT side of the coil.  Hmm.  The HT lead was rock hard and manipulating it to put on the plug cap must have completely cracked the insulation apart.  It was only the core holding it together.

I am betting the wire inside is broken.  Certainly needs a new coil to start with.   Is this type of coil the type where you can screw a new piece of ht lead into it, or is it the sealed type?

With points closed you should see a zero ohm reading.  Perfect continuity to ground.  (Possibly meter not "zeroed", depending on type?)  With points open, you should see the approximate resistance of the source coil, generally about one to two ohms. 

On the coil, I would attempt to unscrew the wire... If I remember correctly the ones that are not replaceable have noticeable "glue" where the wire enters the coil housing?

Thanks Mark.

After a bit more research, it turns out that the coil is exactly the same as the 175 coil, so it is a sealed unit.

I will try the 175 coil on it. 

I was not happy with the really cheap looking, unbranded points fitted, so I have also ordered a set of Daiichi points for it and will fit those.

At the price I found them it woud be daft not to.

Yamaha genuine ( probably mitsubishi) £44.
Daiichi (daiichi trademark on picture of points, who knows what may be actually supplied) for DT100 by aftermarket seller £11.99
Daiichi NOS listed for the unglamourous  Honda 70 cub with yamaha part number 437-81321-20 on the Daiichi box and in description. 5.99 inc shipping.  Of course I pounced on them.

I do enjoy a good ferret around the parts bins on ebay.

 

Well bike has been sat two days with a drip tray underneath.  There is a thumbnail sized pool of blue oil in it...

Pump is still leaking.. Not much, but a single drip a day is too much.  I hate oil leaks.  

Plan B.  I should have done this first.  It is how I would have approached it if I saw the crack before putting it back together.
I have knocked all the epoxy putty off and removed the pump.  It will be taken to work, the inners removed and the casing thoroughly degreased. 
I have a bottle of thin viscosity superglue in my toolbox (useful for sticking flaps of skin back down when I lose a battle with a big bit of steel).  I aim to rid the hairline crack of any trace of oil and fill it with superglue to seal it.  I will then use a thin skin of epoxy putty or maybe even clearcoat applied by brush over the top to protect the cya from any future moisture.

If that fails, I will have to buy a secondhand pump for the casing and fit my innards into it.

It appears we have reached that depressing point in the build.  The small stuff. 
Rarely do the big lumps give problems.  You fly through those whistling a merry tune.
It is the small stuff. 
The carb, the coil, various small rubber parts that are after close scrutiny, perishing and need replacing.  Not forgetting the bodges and feckups by previous owners.  That special rubber grommet, spacer and bolt that was lost 40 years ago and replaced by a rusty roof bolt, square nut and repair washer sourced from a coffee can full of rusty widgets sat on a 1970s garage shelf.

That carb with the stripped thread.  The replacement carb that will in all probability piss fuel out of the overflow on the first attempt to fill it.
The coil with the hard as a rock HT lead.  The cheap unbranded points.  New electrical gremlins that were working before..  The oil pump... The wrongly described and supplied aftermarket cables.  Parts no longer available mean expensive gambles have to be taken sourcing genuine parts from other models that look the same.



At least nothing has been found to have been secured by woodscrews or bent nails on this build.. Yet.

We will overcome... 

Crack duly filled with several coats of superglue till it stopped wicking in to the crack,  excess wire brushed off outside of pump and about a 2mm layer of 2 part epoxy resin applied over crack to stabilise it and protect the cyo from moisture.

Pump refitted and bled.  48 hours later and we have no sign of leaks.  I will not be comfortable with it though until it has survived several hours of running.

Next is replacing the cheap points with the Daiichi set and trying the 175 coil to see if we get a spark.  Then I will fit the tank and open the fuel tap waiting for the gusher out of the carb overflow.

The most distressing part at the moment is the fact that the blob of body snot on the rear fender keeps waving and shouting"Yoohoo, I am still here, I am still waiting to be sanded down and reshaped.  I am not going anywhere.  You cannot ignore me forever".

Fitted the 175 coil to the bike and flicked it with current from battery positive.  We have spark and a nice tick noise when the plug fires.  Happy with that.
Reordered the exact same coil again for the 175.  Happy with its performance on the 175.

Plugged in the black and white to the coil, ignition on and kicked it over.  No spark.

Unplugged main multiplug and ran a wire directly from the black stator wire to the coil.  Kicked it over.  Nothing.
Almost certainly the problem is down in the stator.

Double checked the ignition and kill switches by checking connectivity across the black and white wire and ground.

Engine multiplug disconnected, ignition on, killswitch to run.  No connectivity between black/ white and ground.


Ignition off or ignition on and killswitch to stop and we have connectivity.  It is not the switches.


Ignition on, killswitch to run, multiplug reconnected.  Connectivity to ground.  I think the cheapo points are shorting to ground.  I guess they did not enjoy their little bath in the sink.

Before I start to fit the new Daiichi points and time the spark, I need a good tidy up.  It is like a hoarders junk pile in there.  I hate it when you have to concentrate more on stuff going on around you than the job you are trying to do.

 

Details are by far more challenging than to just "get the engine running."

It prob will but for how long?

Most details are brake/sus/tires/seats/clocks/lights.

cliff