Greetings All,

My mechanical ability improved a bit since I first joined the forum. I did a workforce training program paid for by Uncle Sam and became a certified Yamaha outboard technician. I am now working two days a week as a mechanic on outboards. With this new confidence and access to an ultrasonic cleaner at work I thought I would tackle a rebuild of Mad Max's carb. I quickly got over my head. These are not the same as working on outboard carbs. I can't even get this thing off! 

Can someone walk me through the removal steps? I am hung up on two things so far. First the air intake hose is blocking the clearance needed to pull it off the two mounting studs. Second, there appears to be a throttle linkage going right into the top of the carb and I don't know the correct way or place to disconnect it. I hope everything is clear in the pic . If not I can easily take more and post a follow up reply. Thanks for the advice and of course if anybody notices any other concerning items from the pics please let know and I will add it to my list for the maintenance overhaul I am trying to undertake.

Note: the float drain screw I took out already it's not missing. 

Thank you so much! 

I would first clean up the whole area with contact cleaner or something, I wouldn't want dirt getting into the reed block/air boot. . .

Unscrew and remove the top cap and pull out the whole throttle cable/slide assembly from the carb.

Remove fuel line

Push carb towards the rear, into the air intake boot to free it from the studs on the reed block

Angle the front of the carb to clear the cylinder and pull out of the rear air boot

Should be home free

*Edit:  Of course it not always as easy as it sounds, sometimes a fair amount of muscle is required to muscle it out.  Silicone spray around the rubber air boot can help a bit.

On some of my bikes I have to remove the screws that hold the air box in place so that you can get that little bit of extra clearance to get the carb out. I attribute that to the fact that most of my rubber boots between the carb and the airbox are hard as a rock. 

A gentle heat gun (I use Gr8auntiepat's old hairdryer!  ) can be used to temporarily soften old, hardened rubber, to assist with removal or fitment. 

RT360, Thank you for this help! I did try just unscrewing the top cap and the spring and cylinder popped right up but I saw the cable going down inside and figured it must be connected to something inside the carb, otherwise I don't see how it does anything. Is there no linkage on the carb side of that cable? It just pulls right out?

Cable "hooks" on the underside of the throttle valve (slide) and there should be a retaining plate that sits on top, but under the spring, to keep in place.

What you refer to as the drain screw should actually be a banjo bolt with the main jet screwed into the end of it.

Presumably this type of main jet set up was to make changing it quicker and easier (ie without having to remove the whole carb). However, it was later discontinued and the main jet was positioned within the main body of the carb. 

Main jet banjo was used on bolted flange carbs and made it infinitely easier to change main jet.  Banjo was generally discontinued with the advent of "spigot mount" carbs that allowed carb to be easily rotated for access to main jet.

Thanks Mark.

Presumably this was just for the enduros? The R5 has the flange mount, but not the lower positioned main jet.  

Yes right! I was surprised to see a jet come out with what I thought was the drain screw. Also, no fuel drained out so I thought the bowl was empty somehow and noted I might have a fuel problem because I expected some fuel pouring out at least a little.

About unhooking the throttle cable from the underside of the throttle valve (slide), is that easy to do with the carb still in one piece?

What was the "cylinder" that you were referring to? I assumed that this was the throttle slide. If not then, unless it is stuck (quite possible), then pulling on the cable should bring it up and out, with the needle fitted into it.