Hello, I have been trying to retime my 1973 Rt3 360 with no luck. I started out with trying to follow this guide  and began to notice that what was happening on my end no where near resembled what the video was showing. 

For me, my multimeter would not show the points breaking at a specific spot, i would have to spin the flywheel quickly in order to get any sign that they had broken. I thought that this might be the sign of a bad condenser, so I replaced it with a new one, and the same problem stuck around.

I have the positive end of my multimeter measuring for ohms plugged into the black wire heading out from the points, and for ground I have it hooked to the battery/bikes ground. 

I also tried getting my piston into the correct position and then adjusting the points along their full range and did not get any readout suggesting that they were in their correct spot at any time.

Also I have had the bike turned off with no key in ignition for all of my recent attempts. Brand new points have been installed, and the bike ran well for awhile before it started knocking, which is the reason why I decided to retime, since when I first timed it I had a completely false understanding of how the system worked.

This is my first time messing with something like this so I feel like its probably just coming down to a dumb mistake on my part
Thanks in advance
 

Easiest way to keep it simple is find the timing tab that's comes off one coil screw at right angles. Align that with the notch in the flywheel window & release the points screw so the points settle, then tighten the screw. Ok it'll be a bugger & not play ball & move a slightly, but you'll get it after a few tries so that they crack free at that very point--which all going to plan should be 2.9mm btdc. Back plate isn't slotted on those so only points gap determines the timing. You get good at eyeballing the points to see them start to move at that moment if you turn the flywheel back further then come up to the mark. Also please tighten the flywheel super tight if you've removed it at any stage as gobble up crank keys for supper. I'll post this then go read later. Happy to be scolded for my methods haha.

You'll have sleepless nights after watching that video & i see he's got the flywheel removed from the cam--or has a separate cam for his timing purpose which would be unlikely to be right if he fitted his complete flywheel with cam later after the event. didn't watch it all i must admit. Also if i use a meter i'm still stuck in old fashioned analogue meter days--happy days-- to watch a needle move.

Forget that video for one. Get the piston at the correct BTDC. The points should just open at that time. You should be able to see them move as you slowly turn the flywheel. Don't worry about points gap, they take care of themselves.

Problem is likely your meter.  Digital meters often SUCK at this task and most won't give you any meaningful reading.  The difference in ohms between points closed (0) and open is only about 1 to 2 ohms.

Meter should have a specific "Rx1" setting or it probably won't work.  Analog meter with Rx1 scale setting is king for this in my book.

Disconnect black wire and connect there.  Make sure points are clean.  Yes, even new ones. 

Tons more tips and tricks if you do a search here.

Wish i still had my yamaha points meter from the "60's. Think it read below 1 ohm 'if i'm thinking righ't, & gave a full swing or big swing of the needle from closed to open,--red to green etc. Anyone got a pic of one?. I left a battery in mine for about 40 years after cdi arrive & never got used again so got corroded beyond fixing when i found it deep in a drawer one day.

Googled images till i found one. Brings back memories. 

For the older snow machines.. we use a points buzz box... No looking.. when the buzz changes... you have it... Still check the gap
Sneezles61

I bought the dial indicator on the right and a '71 DT1-E from the Yamaha dealer in Alexandria, Virginia in 1971. The other tools and components came from eBay.

 
 

At the Yamaha dealership I worked for we used a test light. I still use it today hope this helps you