Hello all

Been trying to figure out why I have no power to left side brown wire feeding the flashers. Installed a new battery, and all other electrical works fine except left side flashers. If I switch the left directional plug in to the green wire front/rear (right side power) they will work fine. I also carefully removed the inside flasher assembly for a visual inspection. All  wires and solder joints are fine. Been trying to understand the schematic on here but electrical in general is a weak point for me. Refuse to throw in the towel and hoping someone can point me in the right direction no pun intended lol

Any noise (eg a click) from the flasher relay when you try and use the left side?

If the switch works when you turn it it left, albeit plugged into green, then that probably rules out that.

Double check that you have not mistaken a normal brown wire for a dark brown (chocolate) one it the headlight bucket - the wires can fade or darken over time.

Brown/white comes into the flasher switch from the flasher.  From there "flashing power" goes out to the green or dark brown depending on which way you move the turn switch lever. 

If right side works and the left doesn't you have a problem with the left side switch contacts or the dark brown wire from switch to headlight bucket. 

 

Yes dark brown & brown are a trap, as are dark green & green--think there's a ordinary green, horn maybe. Anyway, just join the relay wire to bypass it & your flashers just become lights--for testing.

Yes shades of brown and green change with age making it difficult. Pretty sure I have them correct but will recheck them. Sounds like we can at least rule out the flasher since its position dependent from switch. I certainly have more to check out based on your advise guys. I will update once I get back into it. Getting pretty excited since this is the only issue holding me up from going to the DMV. Been only 38 years lol Thank You !

Going by what you've said, it pretty much has to be the switch or a broken wire to the switch.

If you selected the wrong brown on the lights side, swapping to the green wire to power the brown would not have lit up the signals

If you selected the lighter brown wire on the power side, then the left side turn signal lights would turn on with the key...  lighter brown is battery power. 

I am assuming you still have all the factory male and female connectors...  if someone has butchered the wiring there could be other possibilities. 

Switch can usually be cleaned if contacts dirty...  sometimes a wire breaks off in the switch and that's usually not too hard to repair either.

Good luck getting it going!!

Finally got back into the garage. Found the problem at the switch. Dark brown wire feeding left flashers has a broken solder connection. Looks like an easy fix,but not sure the best way to go about it..Contact block looks like old bakelite material from long ago, so how much heat will it take at 50 years old. Messing this up is not an option. Any tips greatly appreciated ! 

Use a cooler solder pen ( I've a 23 watt for old guitar repairs)... Re-tin the wires and the attachment point... Be sure they are good' fresh solder.. then join them.. be sure to hold the wire with a very fine needle nose.. and keep it steady until cooled.. 
I've got a few old Honda's done like this with out any problems..  Practice a bit before? Steady as she goes!! RRR!
Sneezles61

I use a gigantic old Weller solder gun for these repairs, and of course I'm super careful and it always works. Better tools exist, if I can do these repairs with a blowtorch you can too with the proper solder tool.

My experience is clean, clean, clean, and then clean some more. 

A friend who was an ace at soldering told me the easiest way to damage delicate parts is to use TOO SMALL an iron, not too big.  With a proper sized iron you can get the job done in a second...  literally.  Too small an iron and you have to hold the iron there too long and often end up with a cold solder joint and/or melted parts.  . 

He sold me a nice "soldering station" where you set the temp of the tip and it stays there.  Has a ton of power so even with a big mass to solder it stays at the right heat so you can get the job done fast.  Makes soldering a breeze.

Mine is a Hakko... about $100 new (I paid $20 used).  But Amazon has several similar versions for under $40.  Worth it.  Makes soldering much easier.