www.allballsracing.com/22-1008.html

Would this kit fit a AT1-c? Since doing my restoration the steering has never been right. I want to replace the bearings and races with this tapered bearing setup to reduce the possibility of screwing up install. Anyone use this kit? 

I have successfully used those on several Yamaha enduros, but not an AT1-C. They feel really nice when properly installed.

Be aware before you start, that these are taller by a few millimeters each than the stock balls and races. I ran into a few problems.

First was during the installation. There is only a very narrow edge to push the outer races into the frame. They are a press fit into the steering head on the frame. If you are not careful, you can damage the bearing surface.

Next the steering nut that tightens the bearings will be higher, and the jam nut or top cover steering nut has fewer threads to bite.

Finally, the triple trees are now almost 1/4 inch farther apart from each other. So your headlight ears will bounce up and down unless you shim up the gaps with o-rings, washers or something else.

If you go with the tapered roller bearings, the good news is you don't have to chase little balls around the floor when you drop them. Your wallet will be lighter. The originals are readily available at low cost. Check other posts on using the stock ones.

Do they still make the rubber gaskets for the headlight ears? Last time I had this all apart somehow I lost some.

Sounds like I should use stock ball bearings. I was having an issue when I put this back together where after turning back and forth the top nut would come lose unless I really cranked it down and then its hard to turn right.

CMSNL do repros - see link below.

If CMSNL, who are in Europe, can get repros, then they should be available in the US as well - try KDI and Clauss Studios.

GASKET (NAS) (NON O.E. ALTERNATIVE) for AT1C 1971 USA - order at CMSNL

If the first (castle) nut is tightened sufficient to allow smooth, free movement, then tightening the top nut above the top yoke (triple tree) shouldn't really affect this. 

Billy Mild wrote: "Do they still make the rubber gaskets for the headlight ears? Last time I had this all apart somehow I lost some."

Don't know if they still make them. I bought a cheap large o-ring kit from Harbor Freight and use those o-rings as spacers. Select the largest size that doesn't flop around and stack as many as you need to fill the gaps. If you can put one on top and one on the bottom of the headlight ear it will cushion them over bumps like the original rubber. They are somewhat hidden by the headlight ears.

Billy Mild wrote: I was having an issue when I put this back together where after turning back and forth the top nut would come lose unless I really cranked it down and then its hard to turn right."

What Great Uncle Al said! Set the nut with outside notches to the proper bearing clearance/preload. Then tighten the top bolt and make sure the steering doesn't bind. There is a pinch bolt on the upper triple tree that gets tightened, too.

If there's flattened off threads where the bearing race sits on the stem you have movement that can't be eliminated except falsly by overtightening the bearing preload.
It's a yamaha failure of threading the stem too far rather than calculating it better so the bearing cone can run on a perfect size & not the unused threaded portion.
Anyway-- with taper rollers & sitting higher with the longer bearing inner it'll be good & probably found a bit of thread up the stem a bit that's never had anything on it except the adjuster ring.
On one of my bad ones i bronzed the bearing cone to the adjuster ring nut then shielded it from dirt somehow because original shielding thing needed to be longer as was sitting on top rather than under the adjuster ring.
Mind you i guess your shield now need to be longer if the top bearing is taller.
Does it still overlap & cover down onto the steering head neck.
Sorry for woffling on a bit about nothing important haha.

My steering gets tight when turning right the last 1-2" is very tight. Left turning no issue at all. 

I wonder if the races that sit in the frame are fitted straight? Very easy to get wrong. Same principle applies to tapered races.

Talking original cup & cone races people pile in the balls & end up with one too many. Always 19 1/4 balls bottom & 22 3/16 top. One more top & your in trouble. Not sure you have room for one more bottom but same issue prob worse. So stick to the correct numbers 22 & 19.