Search Results (Searched for: splitting the cases 360)
- MarkT
13 Dec 2020 18:06
Replied by MarkT on topic rt3 360 restoration help
Half moon thing is half of a 2 piece spacer that probably got knocked loose when you were banging the shafts splitting the cases. #28 in the Partzilla Trans diagram.
When you pull the output shaft out of the case you'll likely find the other half and the washer ("shim" #29) that holds them together... if I remember right... been a long time since I've been in one of those..
When you pull the output shaft out of the case you'll likely find the other half and the washer ("shim" #29) that holds them together... if I remember right... been a long time since I've been in one of those..
- Mothersbaugh
06 Dec 2020 14:33
Replied by Mothersbaugh on topic rt3 360 restoration help
Not a video, but there must be something here:
yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/sear...te=all&childforums=1
yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/sear...te=all&childforums=1
- apex
25 Nov 2020 15:40
...and the reason you need to do this is the debris you had from piston & rings is into the crankshaft rod big end bearing, as well as the crank bearings. Crank bearings are easy with the cases split, but you need to have the crank rod big end bearing re-done, as that's not something that takes well to debris showers, even after cleaning it out. The damage was already done, and you will have a big end bearing failure, if not right away (if just flushed out) but at some inopportune point during a ride. Speaking from experience. When the big end bearing goes it just takes out your fresh top end as well. Just good insurance based on your tear down.
Replied by apex on topic rt3 360 restoration help
...and the reason you need to do this is the debris you had from piston & rings is into the crankshaft rod big end bearing, as well as the crank bearings. Crank bearings are easy with the cases split, but you need to have the crank rod big end bearing re-done, as that's not something that takes well to debris showers, even after cleaning it out. The damage was already done, and you will have a big end bearing failure, if not right away (if just flushed out) but at some inopportune point during a ride. Speaking from experience. When the big end bearing goes it just takes out your fresh top end as well. Just good insurance based on your tear down.
- Pedalcrazy
25 Nov 2020 12:44
Replied by Pedalcrazy on topic rt3 360 restoration help
Well partner I’d probably retract my post of trying to simply flush out any small rock debris. With pieces of piston in the mix now I’d recommend splitting the cases.
- Pedalcrazy
23 Nov 2020 16:21 - 23 Nov 2020 16:26
Replied by Pedalcrazy on topic rt3 360 restoration help
I'm with you on splitting the cases...but just thinking about where the rocks could have traveled. I believe the only opening in to the center is at bottom near the shift drum or oil drain plug. It is currently obscured in your pic by black sludge. Clean that out and you'll see the opening. So, really any rocks that get through there should be sitting on the bottom of the cases? If you are not confident on splitting the cases one might thoroughly, very thoroughly, flush down through crank area, shake and tilt to drain through that little window at the bottom. Due that several times rotating the internals until you are confident that no debris remains. It would great if you got no evidence of rocks on the first flush but really, do it several times. Use diesel or kerosene as it will clean the sludge out from where you can't see. Of course splitting the cases would work too.
- RT360Fan
22 Nov 2020 09:41 - 22 Nov 2020 10:46
Replied by RT360Fan on topic rt3 360 restoration help
Wow.
First, welcome!
Second, HOLY ROCKS batman! I have no idea why or how those rocks got in there, I've never seen anything like that.
Splitting cases is not that difficult, but can be intimidating the first time. Look in the Tech Section here for factory service manual, and various threads about rebuilds. Good luck, and keep us posted!
First, welcome!
Second, HOLY ROCKS batman! I have no idea why or how those rocks got in there, I've never seen anything like that.
Splitting cases is not that difficult, but can be intimidating the first time. Look in the Tech Section here for factory service manual, and various threads about rebuilds. Good luck, and keep us posted!
- turbodan
06 Aug 2020 20:39
Replied by turbodan on topic Substitute pistons for DT360
Your eyes do not decieve you. The intake port area seemed insufficient for a 351cc single so I added some boost ports in this jug. In addition to increased port area, these also allow the intake to respond to a pressure differential in the crankcase at any time, even BDC where the stock piston closes the intake port completely. If I were to install a good expansion chamber, this would be significantly beneficial.
Then again, I have begun to wonder if this motor would benefit from increasing primary compression, in which case I should have left the intake port stock and also omitted the windows from the intake side of the skirt. This is a potential advantage of the FL350 piston. Comes with no windows or boost ports. This would increase primary compression by isolating everything upstream of the piston skirt from the crankcase by 75 or 80 degrees ATDC.
I may order up another one of them in 80mm and try it in the stock jug I have on the bike currently. That would be easier than splitting cases just for an experiment in stuffing the crank and epoxying the cases. I'd be happy to do that though if the results are good.
Then again, I have begun to wonder if this motor would benefit from increasing primary compression, in which case I should have left the intake port stock and also omitted the windows from the intake side of the skirt. This is a potential advantage of the FL350 piston. Comes with no windows or boost ports. This would increase primary compression by isolating everything upstream of the piston skirt from the crankcase by 75 or 80 degrees ATDC.
I may order up another one of them in 80mm and try it in the stock jug I have on the bike currently. That would be easier than splitting cases just for an experiment in stuffing the crank and epoxying the cases. I'd be happy to do that though if the results are good.
- MarkT
11 Jul 2020 08:35
Replied by MarkT on topic Re:Shifting issues
There's a lot more I'd try before splitting cases.
What I would do is remove the linkage and try to rotate the shift drum into each gear. You'll probably need to remove the shift detent plunger because otherwise you won't be able to rotate the drum very easily. Without the plunger/spring, it won't "snap" into gear. By turning the shafts and the drum you should be able to rotate the drum through all the gears... They don't shift through the gears easily like this... it's fiddly... and you can hit false neutrals... but you should be able to do it by rotating the rear wheel and/or input shaft as you rotate the drum.
The intermittent problem is often the shift detent plunger/spring... so you could also install it and make sure it helps "snap" the shift drum into gear. It doesn't seem such a simple part could cause a problem like this, but it does. Maybe something has happened to where it's sticking in the bore? Seen that. I also had one once where someone put the wrong spring in there and plunger wasn't even contacting the shift drum.
Also check the manual. I'm seeing the gaps between the stop pin and the limiting plate on the shift input shaft don't look too equal on your bike... could be camera angle... We can't see the gaps between the "claw" and the shift drum pins which is actually what you need to be concerned about. And then the manual shows a second adjustment to check at full travel. It's been many years since I messed with one of those but I do remember a friend having trouble after a crash and it took a bunch of tweaking the adjustment to get it to shift right again. (We didn't have a manual)
.
What I would do is remove the linkage and try to rotate the shift drum into each gear. You'll probably need to remove the shift detent plunger because otherwise you won't be able to rotate the drum very easily. Without the plunger/spring, it won't "snap" into gear. By turning the shafts and the drum you should be able to rotate the drum through all the gears... They don't shift through the gears easily like this... it's fiddly... and you can hit false neutrals... but you should be able to do it by rotating the rear wheel and/or input shaft as you rotate the drum.
The intermittent problem is often the shift detent plunger/spring... so you could also install it and make sure it helps "snap" the shift drum into gear. It doesn't seem such a simple part could cause a problem like this, but it does. Maybe something has happened to where it's sticking in the bore? Seen that. I also had one once where someone put the wrong spring in there and plunger wasn't even contacting the shift drum.
Also check the manual. I'm seeing the gaps between the stop pin and the limiting plate on the shift input shaft don't look too equal on your bike... could be camera angle... We can't see the gaps between the "claw" and the shift drum pins which is actually what you need to be concerned about. And then the manual shows a second adjustment to check at full travel. It's been many years since I messed with one of those but I do remember a friend having trouble after a crash and it took a bunch of tweaking the adjustment to get it to shift right again. (We didn't have a manual)
.
- KWI
13 Nov 2019 06:05
72 model, using a bastardised 360 front pipe, a lump of mild steel exhaust tubing, and the bulk of the IT400’s expansion chamber with an even scarier home made muffler adjoined via threaded water pipe unions. Compression release has been wired off and might see if i can resurrect it somewhat. Goin to pluck the cylinder off tomorrow and start splitting the cases as to get at the trans and see if the shaft can be salvaged or not, though i note theres a few out there for sale i needs must. Hoping its all worth the efforts in the end.
Replied by KWI on topic And just who do you think you are?
72 model, using a bastardised 360 front pipe, a lump of mild steel exhaust tubing, and the bulk of the IT400’s expansion chamber with an even scarier home made muffler adjoined via threaded water pipe unions. Compression release has been wired off and might see if i can resurrect it somewhat. Goin to pluck the cylinder off tomorrow and start splitting the cases as to get at the trans and see if the shaft can be salvaged or not, though i note theres a few out there for sale i needs must. Hoping its all worth the efforts in the end.