Search Results (Searched for: clutch actuator)
- AirborneSilva
21 Nov 2022 13:20
Replied by AirborneSilva on topic DT2 Clutch Release
Sorry you put your clutch actuator on wrong, that sucks big time I'm sure. When I did mine I marked where the original was with a sharpie so I could get it back on the exact same way. I wasn't sure if it made a difference but didn't want to take a chance.
Have you thought about cutting it off with a dremel? Sucks that you'd have to buy another but has to be cheaper and easier then trying to find a used one.
If it makes you feel better I've made some pretty costly mistakes learning about these bikes, mostly because of not paying attention and getting in a hurry...
Have you thought about cutting it off with a dremel? Sucks that you'd have to buy another but has to be cheaper and easier then trying to find a used one.
If it makes you feel better I've made some pretty costly mistakes learning about these bikes, mostly because of not paying attention and getting in a hurry...
- mx360guy
21 Nov 2022 12:57
Replied by mx360guy on topic DT2 Clutch Release
I am still going through a learning curve with my DT3 clutch. Seems to be the Achilles heel of some of these models to me.
I have discovered the hard way that the brass worm gear from KDI MUST be pressed onto the actuator shaft in exactly the correct orientation or the clutch will not work right...You get one shot to get it right. It seems impossible to get off again
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. There is really good clutch fix if you search for this topic but it takes some tools and some skills using a more common clutch actuator. The actuators for the DT1-3 models seem to be very rare and very expensive if can you find one.
This is just my experience with the Yamaha clutches on bikes from this era and I have a way of making something easy more challenging that it should be be; my disclaimer.
Good luck, take your time and take the advise of the folks here.
I have discovered the hard way that the brass worm gear from KDI MUST be pressed onto the actuator shaft in exactly the correct orientation or the clutch will not work right...You get one shot to get it right. It seems impossible to get off again
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This is just my experience with the Yamaha clutches on bikes from this era and I have a way of making something easy more challenging that it should be be; my disclaimer.
Good luck, take your time and take the advise of the folks here.
- 1971DT250
20 Nov 2022 13:47
Replied by 1971DT250 on topic DT2 Clutch Release
Clutch plates can look OK but when they are old can slip. Suggest new plates and springs. The new plates from Yamaha # 5Y1-16331-01 are an improved design with wider tabs. If you use heavier springs it may put more strain on the nylon spiral on the clutch push actuator. The brass replacement from KDI is able to hold up to the increased tension. Also the cable sheath can be worn and compressed. Also I've found some new aftermarket cables to be harder to pull.
- Andy L
03 Nov 2022 17:03
Replied by Andy L on topic Stripped Clutch Adjustment on Crankcase
Hi Renegade578. I'm not conviced a helicoil would work in this particular application. Behind the crankcase thread that is damaged is a void that receives the clutch actuator arm. As it is a void there is nothing to stop a helicoil from simply continuing to wind inwards as you thread in your clutch adjuster spigot. The beauty of a time-sert is that it has a shoulder to stop it winding in too far. If the time-sert insert proves to be too long you can simply cut some threads off the non shouldered end.
Ensuring swarf is contained and fully removed when drilling and tapping the new oversize thread in the crankcase could be your biggest challenge. Mind you don't let that put you off what sounds like an interesting challenge to overcome. Good luck with it all, Andy
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Ensuring swarf is contained and fully removed when drilling and tapping the new oversize thread in the crankcase could be your biggest challenge. Mind you don't let that put you off what sounds like an interesting challenge to overcome. Good luck with it all, Andy
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- Andy_C
05 Oct 2022 08:03
DT400 Oil leak was created by Andy_C
While waiting for some spares to arrive, the DT has been sat on it's side stand, and I notice that it has been dropping oil.
Pretty sure it is not from the gearbok sprocket oil seal - it looks like it may be comming from the clutch actuator as there is a doplet of oil in the operating arm.
Not been able to find any detailed diagrams, but I assume that the actuator shaft that runs up from the bottom of the engine probably has an oil seal along the way, can someone confirm if this is the case, and whether it can be replaced without stripping the engine.
It is not a big leak just enough to make the underside of the cases oily and drip a little on the grouund.
Thanks.
Pretty sure it is not from the gearbok sprocket oil seal - it looks like it may be comming from the clutch actuator as there is a doplet of oil in the operating arm.
Not been able to find any detailed diagrams, but I assume that the actuator shaft that runs up from the bottom of the engine probably has an oil seal along the way, can someone confirm if this is the case, and whether it can be replaced without stripping the engine.
It is not a big leak just enough to make the underside of the cases oily and drip a little on the grouund.
Thanks.
- MarkT
02 Oct 2022 07:31
Replied by MarkT on topic Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage
With nut tight.... assuming it doesn't run out of threads on shaft and actually tightens against inner hub... the hub presses spacer bushing which presses against inner ball bearing race which pulls shaft through bearing. There is a shim and a gear on other side on bearing that prevents shaft from pulling through bearing.
So with nut tight shaft is "clamped" on inner ball bearing race. Any end play in shaft with nut tight would have to be ball bearing moving. Not likely.
Outer basket rides on spacer bushing which is slightly longer than total height of bushing inside outer hub plus height of thrust bearing and shim washers. So there can be and usually is a little up-down play in outer basket with nut tight.
But once you install the disk stack, the pressure plate, the springs, and snug down the bolts, the pressure plate pushes on the disk stack which pushes on the outer basket and no more outer basket play.
So if stack is too short or pressure plate is held off the disk stack by pushrod adjustment, screwed up worm gear actuator not allowing pushrod to retract, (or wrong pushrod lengths or an extra ball), then you'll have play in the outer basket like you do with no disk stack installed.
If you tried to ride bike, clutch would slip.
So with nut tight shaft is "clamped" on inner ball bearing race. Any end play in shaft with nut tight would have to be ball bearing moving. Not likely.
Outer basket rides on spacer bushing which is slightly longer than total height of bushing inside outer hub plus height of thrust bearing and shim washers. So there can be and usually is a little up-down play in outer basket with nut tight.
But once you install the disk stack, the pressure plate, the springs, and snug down the bolts, the pressure plate pushes on the disk stack which pushes on the outer basket and no more outer basket play.
So if stack is too short or pressure plate is held off the disk stack by pushrod adjustment, screwed up worm gear actuator not allowing pushrod to retract, (or wrong pushrod lengths or an extra ball), then you'll have play in the outer basket like you do with no disk stack installed.
If you tried to ride bike, clutch would slip.
- 1971DT250
28 Sep 2022 04:43
Replied by 1971DT250 on topic Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage
The basket fingers look like they have grooves. This is referred to as "combed". If the the grooves are deep enough they will cause the friction plate tabs to get hung up and not move in and out smoothly. You can file the fingers with a flat file but this makes the basket a little more weak and the plate tabs will have some extra motion causing more combing but if you don't ride hard is will be ok.
The nylon spiral on the actuator is also a possible problem.
Before putting the right side crankcase cover check the alignment of the primary gears and the actuation of the clutch after you adjust the actuator and cable. The parts diagram is a little confusing as to the order of assembly.
And be careful not to pinch the thrust bearing with the spacer.
The nylon spiral on the actuator is also a possible problem.
Before putting the right side crankcase cover check the alignment of the primary gears and the actuation of the clutch after you adjust the actuator and cable. The parts diagram is a little confusing as to the order of assembly.
And be careful not to pinch the thrust bearing with the spacer.
- RT325
27 Sep 2022 19:32
Replied by RT325 on topic Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage
Umm, ok i'm reverting back to the actuator sticking then not sticking. I dunno, actuator split & spreading & not wanting to lift the clutch--then when lifted it's then sticking & not wanting to return back to giving rod clearance. I've Gotta go do some work. Gettin sore eyes from looking lol.
- RT325
27 Sep 2022 19:19
Replied by RT325 on topic Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage
If i'm still on the right problem--you said put it in gear & it doesn't drive. Is it defo clicking drum around into gear. Was going to say no key in the crank gear & its spinning, but no--it's splined, bugger. Spline center in the clutch not ripped out--did that on my 350 Matchy 30 miles from home up in the hills in 1962--yes there was a "62 lol.
Ok, as its layed out & has been assembled it should work providing you have rod clearance. If you removed the actuator cover it 'must' drive in gear. Only other thing i can come up with is if the plates stack up too narrow overall & the mushroom had thingy is sitting against the shaft--cant go in further--& the pressure plate is hard against it before compressing the plates. With the cover of the clutch just put it in first--any gear, third for for a bit more leverage, then push it or try to & see if the clutch pressure plate revolves.
If i'm on the wrong end of the story then back to the start. But thought she ain't driving--opposite to not freeing up when lever is pulled.
Ok, as its layed out & has been assembled it should work providing you have rod clearance. If you removed the actuator cover it 'must' drive in gear. Only other thing i can come up with is if the plates stack up too narrow overall & the mushroom had thingy is sitting against the shaft--cant go in further--& the pressure plate is hard against it before compressing the plates. With the cover of the clutch just put it in first--any gear, third for for a bit more leverage, then push it or try to & see if the clutch pressure plate revolves.
If i'm on the wrong end of the story then back to the start. But thought she ain't driving--opposite to not freeing up when lever is pulled.
- MarkT
27 Sep 2022 18:39
Replied by MarkT on topic Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage
I have no facts or even a good argument to explain why... I just have had a gut feeling the problem is and has been in the worm gear actuator on the other side of the engine.
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I'm not that familiar with the clutch layout on that engine but you have a few experts helping that I'm sure will make sure you get the clutch assembled right... hopefully that fixes it.
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I'm not that familiar with the clutch layout on that engine but you have a few experts helping that I'm sure will make sure you get the clutch assembled right... hopefully that fixes it.