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That’s interesting as never seen the 4 start steel inner nylon outer with cage ‘split’. Just one more thing to look out for. Never ending isn’t it lol.

This is a NOS XS650 actuator that was made probably in the mid '80s. Cracked after sitting on a shelf for 30+ years.

 
 

I looked into using the XS650 fix that has been mentioned in a similarly themed thread, and went as far as buying a new old stock (nos) one from here in the UK. I then had a very rare, intelligent thought and asked the vendor to check the nylon before posting - sure enough, it was cracked, and so sale cancelled.

I also have bought a case cover to get the clutch actuator off it, and then just set the case cover aside to sell when I'm old and greay (for Al)...like, next week?

Good to know. I ordered a new cable from KDI today. The acturator is getting to be a show stopper for me. Man they are hard to find and not very robust. 
Thanks

I have a cracked spiral on an actuator that felt smooth when rotating it by hand with the sprocket cover off but would bind under load when installed.

Thanks so much for the help.

The nylon thread is cracked all the way. Seems very solid and truns well in the socket. I have been making sure I do not lose the #13 ball. I will check again to make sure it is still there. I have the rod out and the plates off. I  don't think the cable is the correct length. It does seem tight no matter how I route it.. It just seems not right. I will search for a better unit.
I will let you know how it goes in a few days.
Thank you!!

My experience with difficult clutch actuation:
Cracked nylon spiral. Compressed cable sheath causing binding. Improper routing of cable causing binding. Poor quality reproduction cable causing binding. Heavier clutch springs causing harder pull. These were used for racing.

On my DT3 regular riders I have 16 tooth drive sprockets. No interference with any components.

The lock nut on the adjuster screw becomes one with the screw and actuator after time. I bought several reproduction actuators about 5 years ago. At the time I also bought NOS adjustment screws and locknuts. I don't try to remove the old ones. When I redo a clutch I replace the fiber plates, springs, ball bearing (item # 13 in the parts diagram), actuator with adjustment screw and locknut, cable and clutch rod seal.

With the cable adjuster loose on the perch so the cable has slack adjust the free play of the actuator with the adjuster screw and locknut slightly making contact and then back off 1/8 turn. Then adjust the cable adjuster on the perch to be pulling the cable when the lever moves about 5 degrees.

Then its good for another 40 years.

Note: I've seen item # 13 missing. It will be amost impossible to get everything right if it is not there. It can fall out with the clutch rod removed and the seal removed or worn if the bike is on its kickstand. It can fall out when you are not looking.

...The clutch actuator is giving me the blues big time. I found a new (different) actuator that came out of a cover that was in very poor condition (paid allot of $$ for this from a salvage yard) long story short, trying to get the clutch to work. I have been struggling with getting the push thing-a-jig that contacts the pressure plate to retract back enough to allow the plate to contact the clutch plates. Something always seems to be too long or too short. It finally dawned on me that the adjuster screw may be screwed in too far.. Of course I can't budge the lock nut on this actuator..what is it with these nuts? I destroyed the original actuator trying to break that very same nut lose.. . I don't have time at the moment to reinstall the clutch plates, pressure plate, and springs, etc but I am noticing that the location of the actuator is uncomfortably close to the front sprocket and chain...The actuator actually hit the chain when pulled up.. ..I bought a cheapo clutch cable on eBay and I am thinking that it is not the right length and is starting its pull too late. The actuator is already halfway out of the threaded socket. The actuator in its completely retracted postion is leaving the return spring slack...and just clearing the chain..Going crazy about this..it should not be so hard.
Any thought on this?