Advanced Search

Also clutch actuator No3 likes being lubed if you can get some oil into it. Pic is a bit confusing as doesn't come apart to lube so just move it & get oil into it or grease but won't flow like oil. I see they call it 'push screw' for want of a better word. 

Complete bike with a straight front low and rear steel primed fenders. The clutch actuator chain cover is not cut but a nickel size piece missing on top. The guy was extremely well off.

He admitted that I was right’ when I told him; “that he’s never going to make the time to put the bike back together.” Oh well
It will get prepped for frame / swing-arm paint. The orange the mandarin orange tins look pretty good particularly the oil tank. I didn’t see the badges, headlight stuff it’s probably in a box if he had it. **** I was in no position to start cherry picking through everything. Hand him the money and get it in the truck quickly as possible. Thank you sir.. Everything is still in the truck. I promised pictures. I wouldn’t let the group down. ( bill of sale type machine ) 
IT HAPPENED … The bike is name is JORDON named after the Country.. Yama-Hottie.

Thanks for the info. I looked at some pictures of early YZ motocross bikes and it looks identical. It had a 3 flute clutch actuator and spring that were mangled. I replaced the spring and post. It was black but most of the paint was flaked off. I cleaned it up. It was listed as an aftermarket Enduro part. There are no markings on it. It is in very good condition with only minor scuffs and scratches. No chain rash or battle damage. eBay has a NOS one listed for $850.00. (WOW). It also looks identical to the one I have.

If anyone needs one for their YZ send me a PM. Otherwise I'll keep it and maybe hang it on the wall in my office.

This is before I cleaned it up.
 
 


 

Is it possible the plates are not stacking up enough & the pressure plate is bottoming on the hub before compressing plates. Other than that it sounds like the adjuster in the actuator wants letting off plenty.

DT3 won't have a splined pressure plate so can't go wrong like the splined one can be fitted wrong & not go on fully. Ignore that bit as just confusing things except i run a later splind pressure plate on something of mine.

Here is some more info on my recent experience rebuilding clutches.

I recently ordered new springs from various sources.

Yamaha part # 90501-20122 is 32.5mm in length.

Yamaha part # 90501-20124 is 34.5mm in length.

And springs I removed from a high mileage heavily abused RT3 clutch are 35mm in length. They were probably a little longer when new.

NHSTEVE mentioned in his original post that Barnett had springs that were 39mm. I'd be leery of those as they may put more strain on the clutch actuator nylon spiral.

I read you have it together assembled with new parts but using the old drum. So it doesn't take much to make a difference at the adjuster, things like the stacked height of new plates or aftermarket plates could do it. I think the main thing is how far from falling out is the 1/4 ball in the actuator. Looks like a brass aftermarket actuator so do they have a ball inserted or is there room for one. Might need to get some 1/4 silver steel & make a rod a few mm longer so it stays shrouded & retained from wobbling by the actuator but with the adjuster backed out to a full nut or a bit more.--if that makes sense!!.

The nut is on backwards. The round part of it should face inboard.

Also you won't be able to adjust it properly until you have all the clutch parts installed.

After everything is installed but before putting on the right crankcase cover loosen the adjustment for the cable at the perch.  Then tighten the screw in the actuator so there is no play and back off 1/8 turn. Tighten the nut while keeping the screw from turning. Then take the slack out of the cable at the perch and back off 1/8-1/4 turn. Verify the operation before you put the crankcase cover on and verify operation before you add oil. I verify by working the clutch while in first gear and rolling it. There will be resistance but it should roll. If you put the crankcase cover on and it won't disengage the pressure plate might be hitting the crankcase cover which means things are not installed properly.

Talking 1/4 ball bearing like in the actuator--Hmm, interesting, unless someone had inadvertently lost the ball from the actuator & thought--pushrod is too short so dropped one down ahead of the pushrod. Think i'm responding to #11.

MarkT said:

but I also remember the ball was the same size as the pushrods on the earlier models with the "worm gear" actuator

I have a '73 RT3 engine dismantled. It has a 5/16" ball.  The ones that fell out were on '71 DT1E 250s. Maybe Yamaha did use both.