I was able to find a coil that tested correctly
Primary resistance = 5 ohms
Secondary resistance = 11K ohms
Silicon rectifier should read 9 -10 ohms I got nothing so that is bad and I will replace it this should have nothing to do with stator output
With the hekp of AI I started checking other things
Powwr to coil when kicking = 4 VAC should be 20-50 VAC
Pulled the magneto off so I could check the stator for any noticable damage all looks good, Source coil the readings I got are as follows:
gray wire to ground = 0.7 ohms
yellow wire to ground = 0.5 ohms
green wire to ground = 0.3 ohms
black wire to ground =  0.3 ohms
white / red wire to ground = 0.3 phms
i should be getting 300 to 500 ohms from one of these wires I think its the black wire so its telling me that I have a short in the source coil
Anybody verify my numbers or am i doing something wrong. The entire stator was rebuilt by Ricks Electric new coils new wiring everything has been replaced

 

Your numbers and logic don't make any sense to me.  If it was "rebuilt", your readings aren't even close to specs... and there isn't really a good way for most people to test the primary stator coil voltage when kicking (plus no official spec is available). 

You had inconsistent spark.  My guess is everything is fine except you need to gently clean the point contact surfaces. 

Your not making any sense 
I dont have a spark and the idea it cannot be tested is nonsense 

Lift the condenser from its mounting then put something non conductive between the points & see what you get on the black, That testing between black & the stator plate for ohms.
Also, if i'm thinking right--see what voltage you get from the black spining it still with condenser isolated from earth & points with something between.
Somewhere on here way back i did a series of tests on my Magneto model AT1, same mag as your CT1. I didn't have a problem with mine but think i did it--just because--. I'll try find the post as probably explains why & what i was up to. After saying that i'm not sure where to start looking.

www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...-crank-over?start=30
Scroll down to my videos. Looks like i just linked the first one going to close to 15ac kicking with points bridged & disconected from plug coil.
Second live video shows getting avout 7ac connected to plug coil.
Third video shows 100 ac peak volts running but being a peak meter on that test its only half that so 50 volts on a normal meter.
Hope thats not too damn confusing. I'm confusing myself looking at what & how i wrote it.
I'll re-link here too below.
youtube.com/shorts/MyJ_KtM3DwY


Hope it works & i'm sure-hope--MarkT will keep you pointed in the right direction if i'm misleading you. Cheers.
Ps, mine has a 175 top end fitted so hard to kick over with plug in as your should be too with plenty of compression.

I didn't say a problem couldn't be tested....  I'm saying what you're posting here is pretty much meaningless (and may be bad data).  

For example you said "i should be getting 300 to 500 ohms from one of these wires I think its the black wire so its telling me that I have a short in the source coil"

No way the black (or any stator coil) wire is supposed to be 300 to 500 ohms. 

What I am saying is you had spark that was inconsistent.  A while back I posted  a simple suggestion that I suspected you would ignore.  Clean your points.  It's not uncommon for even new points to have something coating them than prevents good contact when closed.  Result is no or inconsistent spark.

Or get yourself a good ANALOG meter and give us a reading taken at black (black/white) stator wire disconnected from harness.  Should be zero ohms with points closed and usually in the 1 to 2 ohm range with points open.

RT325 suggested gapping spark plug at 0.020". That's another very good, important suggestion.  It's also hard to see spark sometimes, definitely nearly impossible outside in the sun which I believe he also mentioned. 

Or you can keep guessing and taking pretty much meaningless readings and replacing parts that are likely fine.