Thank you Schu.  I like the brushed look it creates.  Best part, in 10 mins you are done. 

tools/chemicals I use:
Chemguys Heavy Metal Polish
Flapper Wheel 320 grit
Scotch Brite Wheels

Step 1: remove oil/grease to protect your flapper wheel.

Step 2: alum oxide flapper wheel + Chemguys Heavy Metal polish. Apply the metal polish liberally or at least enough to coat the fork. I use a grinder (I have a 1/2" shaft grinder) w/flapper wheel attached to LIGHTLY remove the oxide layer.
This will only take a few minutes. Go over it about 3 times and that should do it. Remember, a light touch is powerful.
I try to mostly flap it in the direction I want it brushed.  Note, it leaves a blackish color that looks questionable but as soon as you wipe it off, looks great!

*in the pic above, I stopped right here. For a really nice finish, go to step 3.

Step3: Remove flapper wheel and put a scote brite wheel on 1/2" alum oxide if poss. ( keep a thin layer of chem guys polish on the part as you do this.  a small amount goes a long way).  The pads are hard to find for a reasonable price. I use 6"x0.5" for this one.  I will buy the ones without holes and use an exacto knife to x out a shaft opening. You can also buy them ready to go. Look around for a good deal. 
6" is good.   There are diff sizes and diam.   I have been know to put 2 on at once to thicken up the pad. 

Step4:  The Reveal.  Simply spray on some windex and wipe it off. 

Excellent write up, and thanks for the Amazon links. I have an extra set of fork lowers to do a test run before I do the RT3 forks.

Schu, I was after the same type of finish. I mostly used a buffing wheel on my grinder to remove the old clear coat, which had yellowed and was deteriorating. I then used a fine grit sandpaper to put the "brushed" look on them. I also applied several coats of rattle can clear on them when I had the look I was after.  I can DM some pics if interested in seeing how they turned out.  I would be willing to take a current one, two years later now.  They are still looking good, IMO.

Regarding the DC front fender, DC also makes a bushing kit with both the rubber and steel bushings, along with nuts and bolts to make for a nice assembly. I think I had to get shorter bolts to work with my bracket, but no big deal.

Pabdt, if interested I would send you a pic of the template for the bracket I made. I would have to DM it. If you wanted to post a pic, that would be fine. I haven't figured out how to do pics here and not interested in the 3rd party thing.

Phyllo, sure I’d be interested in seeing the photos. I’ve sanded and buffed fork lowers to a beautiful shine, but I want to try the brushed look. I have a barn full of bikes with original fork lowers, so I’ll try both methods. 

Thanks Phyllo.   Can someone from the site confirm if we may upload how to items?  Does the messaging function allow pics? 

I just tried to send Schu a couple of pics thru Message and pretty sure it did not work.

The photos were not attached to your message, but I did receive them from your email and that is the look I’m going for. Thanks for sending them.

Send ur email when u get a chance.  

Ok, now it has turn signals. That YH205 switch, I have restoed on another bike. I put one on my CT1 and it worked great.
Switch is a little dirty inside and I'll need to clean it up. You know I love pulling the head lamp off and pulling wires. Oh yeah, thats my favorite part.