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Makotosun

fork strip travails

  • TStanb
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fork strip travails was created by TStanb

Hi
I'm having a real problem stripping down the forks on my 1G1 model.
The Allen bolt at the bottom just spins, even with an airgun and the forks compressed. On my XT600, you simply fabricate a locking tool on the end of a metal rod and lock up the damper gubbins.
Any suggestions?
22 Sep 2021 01:27 #1

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Replied by Swoop56 on topic fork strip travails

I have always used an impact driver with an Allen Key Socket , and with the forks compressed .
Never failed yet .
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22 Sep 2021 02:26 #2

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Replied by MarkT on topic fork strip travails

Grind a tapered end onto an old hardwood broomstick and tap it into the top of the damper rod.  The zip the bolt out while holding the stick. 

 
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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22 Sep 2021 03:38 #3

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Replied by MarkT on topic fork strip travails

Picture might help...  grind or whittle a gentle taper on end of stick that's small enough and tap into end of damping rod.

 

Or if you have deep pockets, Racetech sells a tapered aluminum tool that works the same way
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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22 Sep 2021 04:12 #4

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Replied by darinm on topic fork strip travails

Heat can really be your friend on these too, I've had good luck leaving a heat gun on high about 1" away for 20-30 minutes. May discolor the finish though, but it does help a lot.
1972 Yamaha CT2 175
1972 Suzuki TS185 Sierra
1997 BMW R1200R
2009 BMW X-Country 650
2013 Yamaha XT250

22 Sep 2021 09:49 #5

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Replied by apex on topic fork strip travails

Mark T's trick always works for me. I also find holding the fork tube extended with held pressure pops the bolt loose using an impact.
Allrighty Then
22 Sep 2021 10:09 #6

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Replied by TStanb on topic fork strip travails

Unfortunately I have tried the wittled stick method and it doesn't grip onto anything at all. In fact, when I try to look down the stanchion, there doesn't appear to be a cup or a hole at all...more like a raised platform. I'm getting anxious
Also ... after I've removed the fork seal circlip and retaining washer, should the stanchion slide out of the lower tube with a good tug, bringing the seal with it?
22 Sep 2021 10:39 #7

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Replied by MarkT on topic fork strip travails

We didn't have that model in the US but normally seal does not come out with the tube.  Also, someone may have swapped forks with a much newer model or something...  I don't recall seeing the older style Yamaha damping rods without a hole.  Even the newer bikes with conventional forks have a hole in top of damping rod.  Maybe you just haven't whittled stick small enough.

Can you post pics?
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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22 Sep 2021 11:12 #8

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Replied by TStanb on topic fork strip travails

Thanks 
I’ll post some pics tomorrow
22 Sep 2021 14:46 #9

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Replied by Lizeec on topic fork strip travails

In your first post you mention the forks are compressed, I always leave the spring in and the the top bolt in and out the forks extended, the spring pressure helps hold the dampening rod, then I use an electric or air impact gun on the Allen bolt and it zips loose every time I have tried, probably have rebuilt 25-30 sets of forks.
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22 Sep 2021 16:41 #10

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