Congratulations!!

Sounds like there's hope at last so look forward to the next chapter. One thing though, if you had the flywheel off then please tighten it plenty tight or it'll damage the crank flywheel key & slip the timing--then stop. Sorry i keep saying 'that' to posters but with good reason. Good luck.

Well done arch75250, I can almost feel your excitement at finally getting a spark..!! I often think it's moments like youve just experienced that make restos such fun. It also gives you a shot in the arm (not literally mind lol) to crack on with the project. Andy L. congratulations.

Yes, shot in the arm to be sure. I’ve gone through so many good projects with it but was starting to get discouraged with the wiring.

In the end, I’m not sure exactly what solved it. It may well have been the meticulous cleaning of the points and then finishing with some stiff white paper with electrical parts cleaner on it, then dry. First I used a little strip of 600 grit folded over to catch both sides. I also installed a NOS ignition coil and spark plug boot, new Yamaha condenser, new spark plug, new battery, cleaned the rust off of the flywheel and coils.

Today will see reassembly. I have not timed the bike and I’m hopeful I won’t need to. Before removing the stator, I made sure to mark its exact location on the case, and I’ve never removed the points. I was told it ran ‘normally’ when it was parked.

Crossing my fingers that I’ll hear it run before I have to figure out the timing. It sounds dicey for a newby.

On this topic, I could use advice. I manufactured a flywheel holding bar from aluminum angle. I cut a hole in one end for the socket to go through and drilled holes for small bolts to engage the slots on the flywheel. I set my torque wrench to something like 22 ft/lb and tighten but I’m too chicken to go all the way until the wrench pops.

It feels to my hands that it’s tight enough and I don’t want to damage anything. I also have an impact drill I could use but that seems fairly crude for tightening.

Should I really, really tighten hard and not worry about messing it up? I think I read in one post that someone tightened to 40 ft/lb. based on how it feels not quite getting to 23 or whatever the bolt diameter torque chart said, that seems excessive.

Yamaha is annoying in that it can be difficult to find torque specs... you have to read the service manual.

You're nowhere near tight enough. Should be 650 in-lb or 55 ft-lb. And yes, you need to get it tight as RT325 warned. You don't want to have it slip and shear a key... never the same after that. The taper gets scarred up and it can be almost impossible to keep from slipping after that.

Homemade flywheel holder. Going for 65 ft/lb. Once i tuned my new tool up a bit and gave it hell with the torque wrench it was apparent that I was previously in fact, being a weenie. Waiting for cuz to come stabilize the bike for final pull to 65

Spec is 55 ft-lb... an extra 10 probably won't hurt? Don't know.

What I do... learned it from having an early Husqvarna... torque to spec... re-check after a couple of minutes of running... re-check again after about 30 minutes of riding.

Oops. Should have looked at the number again. In the end I didn’t get to 65 as my tool failed to grab at that high. Pretty sure I should be close to 55 or a bit over.

Over 55 ft lbs I would worry about snapping the crank. I personally have not done that on an enduro (yet, always have to say yet), but that is a fearful thing and I have seen PLENTY of ham-handed Techs with 1/2" impacts snap cranks after changing a timing belt on cars. RT is 100% right though, a couple of times my intimidation of "snapping the crank" has led to a sheared key.