Anyone have good advice or tips on restoring the shine on a tank that has a satin appearance now. Also, any tips on removing minor splotchy surface rust? I'm trying to bring back the shine on my leaves green tank. It is in very good condition, no dents, very minor patina, no huge rust or pitting rust. But it just has this satin appearance, almost like there isn't any clearcoat. I'd like to try and make it appear shiny again, and if at all possible remove the surface blemishes without removing the paint underneath.

I would have no idea where to begin repainting it. I don't think the original code 00V3 will be much helpful at any paint store, and I do not see online where anyone has replicated it or sells it. If that had to be done I imagine i'd take it to a paint shop for color matching and let them do it.

Thanks!

You are in a touch position because you have rust to deal with.

Most basic thing I can think of. Grab a CLAY BAR (box of them for $5.99 on amazon) and a hosepipe and see what happens after you clean it a bit. Then, try polishing compound. It might come out nice.

Could you post some pictures so we can see what your dealing with 

Yes pictures would be great as Wes said. But as someone whom does all his own detailing I agree with the clay bar then polish, after the polish I'd put something on it that contains SI02, which is ceramic based product, it really adds to the shine. You could also ceramic coat it.

photos.app.goo.gl/76stP6KWdPfP5UD27

This is a link to a Google Album with photos of the tank since the website is having issues with picture uploads right now. I never thought about clay bar or ceramic coat. That seems like a great idea. Do you think I have a good base to work with here? As I said, it isn't that bad, it is actually better than most out there I think. There is just unfortunately a good bit of surface imperfections.

I'm wondering if there's clear coat over the stickers, I don't know if they used single stage paint back then or base/clear. If they didn't use clear when you polish the tank you'd have to be careful with the stickers, the polish, depending on how aggressive, might remove some of the paint on the sticker.

I just did all the green on a DT3 and wanted to keep the patina. Wet sanded with 1500 paper and then 5 coats of SprayMax 2K
clear glamor.

Was not clear coated as far as I know.

I would test an area with a paste made from powdered "Bar Keeper's Friend" or "ZUD!" and water.  (Bar Keeper's Friend now makes a liquid/paste version)

Both contain oxalic acid which will remove rust stains.  You just need to make sure in an inconspicuous area that it doesn't harm the paint.  (I've used it on painted surfaces with great success, but best to check)

I do not recommend rubbing or scrubbing.  Just let the paste sit for 10 to 15 minutes and gently wipe/rinse.  Repeat as needed...  the stuff is amazing at removing rust without harming chrome or the painted surfaces I've tried it on.  I suppose you could leave it on longer, but I've always been cautious and it usually doesn't take many applications.

Then I'd evaluate and consider clear coating the whole thing to preserve and seal from further rust with something like Spray 2K.
 

I am late to this conversation. The field rust is indicative of general coating failure in progress. What ever you try to do to it will be temporary and will still show.

That is the bad news

The good news is the green will be close to a readily available color like Deutz Allis green or Kawasaki racing green. Others are likely available. the graphics will be a challenge but stencils can be made ahead of time

coating- strip to bare metal. prime with epoxy amid. Color coat with 2K acrylic Urethane. allow to fully cure. abrade the graphics area with 1500 grit. Tack. Apply mask with the stencil, color coat the graphics (2k again) unmask and clear coat with satin or gloss. Let cure rub out if called for

good luck
Wally

Too far gone, as MarkT said, try this and that but it would be a waste of $ on coatings unless scratches/pits/rust is gone.

cliff