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Rear brake system rebuild
- Burrage
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Rear brake system rebuild was created by Burrage
So we are rebuilding, we have replaced the rear brake shoes and are struggling to rebuild. Are there any step by step instructions on how to build brake pedal, rods etc....cheers
Forgot to say it’s a1973 dt3
Forgot to say it’s a1973 dt3
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic Rear brake system rebuild
I was just going to ask what bike
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Anyway... Most are pretty basic so getting your answer will likely be dependent on a description... Or better... Pictures and description... of what you're struggling with.
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Anyway... Most are pretty basic so getting your answer will likely be dependent on a description... Or better... Pictures and description... of what you're struggling with.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
16 May 2021 12:14
#2
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- Burrage
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Replied by Burrage on topic Rear brake system rebuild
So we are struggling to find the correct position for the cam lever. My son didn’t make anything when he stripped the bike.
We have set it correctly for the brake to operate but the pedal is too high above the foot peg.
how do we adjust the height of the pedal?
We have tried to move the cam lever forward, but when we do this the brake shoes can be heard rubbing, and when we press the brake pedal.. the brakes release...the cam itself looks ok ie. not warn.
actually wondering if the pedal has been bent somehow.
We have set it correctly for the brake to operate but the pedal is too high above the foot peg.
how do we adjust the height of the pedal?
We have tried to move the cam lever forward, but when we do this the brake shoes can be heard rubbing, and when we press the brake pedal.. the brakes release...the cam itself looks ok ie. not warn.
actually wondering if the pedal has been bent somehow.
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- Mothersbaugh
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Replied by Mothersbaugh on topic Rear brake system rebuild
Would seem to me that you just need to "trial and error" it a while with the spline choice for the brake camshaft lever. Also does the tension bar adjust the length of the rod itself. Or do you need to include the setting of the chain tensioners in the mix as well? Just shooting from the hip, here...
16 May 2021 20:04
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- JayB
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Replied by JayB on topic Rear brake system rebuild
I have not worked on your exact model, but will speak from experience with similar enduros.
On your machine, there is no rear brake pedal height adjustment. The pedal tops out by hitting the footpeg bracket. Usually if it is too high, the pedal has been bent. Heat and force can bend the pedal to its original height. Sometimes if the original taller rubber footrests are replaced with lower flat metal ones, the pedal seems a little higher. Pictures would help us to see what is going on.
On your machine, there is no rear brake pedal height adjustment. The pedal tops out by hitting the footpeg bracket. Usually if it is too high, the pedal has been bent. Heat and force can bend the pedal to its original height. Sometimes if the original taller rubber footrests are replaced with lower flat metal ones, the pedal seems a little higher. Pictures would help us to see what is going on.
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17 May 2021 19:01
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- Schu
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Replied by Schu on topic Rear brake system rebuild
Here is a classic example of a bent rear brake pedal that JayB mentioned.
Schu
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, CT2, RT3, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B, DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, CT2, RT3, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B, DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
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18 May 2021 09:28
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- apex
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Replied by apex on topic Rear brake system rebuild
And here's one that's may be bent? This is a '71 DT1
This one is probably not bent, and this is a '73 DT3.
The pedal on my '72 is pressed/formed steel, the one on the DT3 is cast iron, it looks like. The DT3 is a first timer for me, so I'm not 100% sure if there was a change in pedal design in '72 or '73.
Make sure the arm on the brake drum is pointing down, often I see them pointing up after a rebuild and you'll have a tough tome getting things set up properly that way.
Don't forget the Tech Library link up above has links to free Service Manual downloads that will guide you to proper setup.
This one is probably not bent, and this is a '73 DT3.
The pedal on my '72 is pressed/formed steel, the one on the DT3 is cast iron, it looks like. The DT3 is a first timer for me, so I'm not 100% sure if there was a change in pedal design in '72 or '73.
Make sure the arm on the brake drum is pointing down, often I see them pointing up after a rebuild and you'll have a tough tome getting things set up properly that way.
Don't forget the Tech Library link up above has links to free Service Manual downloads that will guide you to proper setup.
Allrighty Then
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- Burrage
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Replied by Burrage on topic Rear brake system rebuild
All, many thanks.. pedal is definitely bent... I started the reforge process last night .. looking better already ... thanks for all your help guys
18 May 2021 23:09
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- Div4604
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Replied by Div4604 on topic Rear brake system rebuild
I’m restoring a 71 dt1 and trying to figure out the break pedal install. Thanks for the pictures. I don’t have the foot pegs yet, been looking but not a lot of choice out there, I can see from your pictures and whoever made the comment that the peg is the upper limits, I need to get pegs and then do the pedal install.
New member, first time has been a pleasure. Don’t take that the wrong way.
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New member, first time has been a pleasure. Don’t take that the wrong way.
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06 Jul 2025 16:21
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- SKYDANCER46
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Replied by SKYDANCER46 on topic Rear brake system rebuild
As others have already noted there is no brake pedal adjustment. With footrest bracket mounted on frame, bend the brake pedal so its level with rubber foot peg or a touch higher if you prefer. You might have to remove brake pedal to bend it in a vise with heat.
However there are 2 other places that need to be aligned correctly to get a proper rear brake lever adjustment and angle on the adjusting rod. If you look carefully at the brake pedal where it mounts to the spline brake pedal shaft you will see 2 small dots near the 12 O'clock position. (see 1st picture). These dots need to be aligned when you mount the brake pedal onto the brake pedal shaft.
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The 2nd thing that needs aligned is the rear brake lever to the brake lever camshaft which expands the brake shoes. (see picture 2). If the camshaft is in the backing plate correctly ( you can have it 180 degrees out) you just need to align the dot on the shaft with the slot in the brake lever. As you can see in my picture there is also a smaller dot. It's because i always mark the spot where the lever slot is before taking the bike apart. You can see the brake lever camshaft was indeed 180 degrees off and the lever was not in the correct spline. The rear brake lever was way off on this bike because the brake pedal was bent and the cam was 180 degrees off on this bike when i bought it.
So with new brake shoes and the brake pedal straight and level with the footrest, your rod adjustment will be correct with plenty of adjustment either way for a firm brake pedal or loose brake which ever you like. These pictures are from my 1969 DT1 but all Yamaha's enduro's i have worked on have these marks. Of coarse there very hard to see so you need to clean the area's extremely well.
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However there are 2 other places that need to be aligned correctly to get a proper rear brake lever adjustment and angle on the adjusting rod. If you look carefully at the brake pedal where it mounts to the spline brake pedal shaft you will see 2 small dots near the 12 O'clock position. (see 1st picture). These dots need to be aligned when you mount the brake pedal onto the brake pedal shaft.
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The 2nd thing that needs aligned is the rear brake lever to the brake lever camshaft which expands the brake shoes. (see picture 2). If the camshaft is in the backing plate correctly ( you can have it 180 degrees out) you just need to align the dot on the shaft with the slot in the brake lever. As you can see in my picture there is also a smaller dot. It's because i always mark the spot where the lever slot is before taking the bike apart. You can see the brake lever camshaft was indeed 180 degrees off and the lever was not in the correct spline. The rear brake lever was way off on this bike because the brake pedal was bent and the cam was 180 degrees off on this bike when i bought it.
So with new brake shoes and the brake pedal straight and level with the footrest, your rod adjustment will be correct with plenty of adjustment either way for a firm brake pedal or loose brake which ever you like. These pictures are from my 1969 DT1 but all Yamaha's enduro's i have worked on have these marks. Of coarse there very hard to see so you need to clean the area's extremely well.
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The following user(s) Liked this Post: MarkT, 1971DT250, swm, Swoop56, JayB, Schu, Ht1kid, Sneezles61
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