im having a little trouble with clutch worm screw.  im screwing it tight then 1/4 turn back but at this distance my lock nut wont stay on or is on by only a thread.  i just put chain on and cant get clutch to engage even with the worm right and a little play in plates when squeezed in.  do i need to have my clutch cover on with oil for it to engage right?  i got the clutch cover off currently.  do yall think i need to clean and oil every plate is one of my problems?

im having heck putting on a rear tire without popping tube too.  do any of yall use duck tape for rim tape?  i think my spokes might be poping the tube or pinching the tube with the spoons. idk yet.  iv tryed 2 tubed so far.  on my third one.  gotta repair thr tubed to see exactly what is going wrong.  right now i got an 71 rim on a 69 just to see if my clutch would work.  got the 69 rim to work on.  i hope the sprockets are the same cause i just broke chain for the 71 rim.  the brake stay arm is different by year.  do yall do your own tires or take them somewhere?  what to expect to pay?
thanks 
 

maybe i should try another 5/16 i think clutch ball to make up some room to where my worm screw is screwing up right. it is like making the push rod longer. i tryed a second ball once without knowing how to adjust tne worm screw accuator thing and it made my clutch plate jam into clutch side cover so it made too much push rod then but now i know how to adjust accuator screw so i feel like an extra ball might be perfect fit.

I use 3 spool tools to change my tires putting it on in "comfortable" widths.

TO PREVENT TUBE STICK:
My trick method is I remove the valve stem in tube and stick the same stem tool or something small through the rim inside to out the other side aligning the tube on the tool instead of trying to find the hole on rim, which seems like a mile away with my hand in there.  Forgot to add, before install open tire side, I blow up tube to 
shape, then let air blow out, then install tire w/tools.  This pushes tube away from rim protecting it somewhat from spoons.

Did I botch that explanation. Yes, of course. Lots of windex spray involved also.

Tighten your spokes and true them up before install to prevent tube sticks.

I would be interested if

* clutch cable in good shape
* ball is in there
* pushrod is in good shape.
* make sure left side case mounting points on engine are not broken or stripped.

* you should post a picture or multiple of your clutch install. Maybe someone can see what is wrong.
The stock linkage always seems to work until you have a thicker or thinner clutch install not expected.

I'm a little confused & very old lol which doesn't help.
Sounds like you mean it won't Dis-engage rather than engage?.
Do you mean it won't free up & you put it in gear & it stops.
Or do you mean you've had the plates out & now it sits there not driving when in gear.
If it wont free up --say disengage--then there's a 1/4 ball in the worm that can fall out--shouldn't as its got 3 marks to stop that, but it happens.
Then you'll have your adjuster way in to reach the pushrod.
The far end in the clutch with the mushroom is a 5/16 ball but don't go doubling that as two balls rubbing together against the mushroom isn't good [& you'll get chafing] [did i say that--that's the safest way i could say it lol].
Digressing a bit, are the plates stuck together from years sitting.
With the clutch cover off on the right side & the actuator fitted on the left you should see the clutch pressure plate move away when pulling the lever.
Let's know what's going on & sorry if i'm not reading the story fully & heading off in the wrong direction.
I grew up on these models.
One more thing, the nylon actuator worm gets split--common complaint--then operating the lever spread the nylon & makes it go tight & resist--umm, worming.
photos.app.goo.gl/N6bFrNKLhW4oNSPX8

when i roll the bike over in gear it wants to turn over the piston even with clutch pulled in. i took plates out and my clutch boss doesnt want to spin independent of the basket? in first it turns over engine when pushed forward. maybe i can take a video... i followed diagrams and some japanese video and a mx250 video so i thought i have stuff right.

followed this video

heres the mx250 video
its strange on an rt and an xs650 the bearing goes between the basket and boss but on the mx and dt1 it seems to go inside the basket . whats up with this? they dont have it wrong do they? seems like in video there bosses spin fine.

OK it's likely the flat bearing has got trapped over the end of the spacer. It's a terrible fiddly thing to assemble without that happening. That's my guess for now as ive seen it before. Or it's something along that thought line. Just remembering back i think you should have a small washer on first which keep the big washer from touching across the whole bearing in the case. So that steps it out a little. Then the long spacer against 'that' big washer. Then the flat bearing but that bearing incorporated a thin-ish washer as part of the bearing. So the rollers are against the big washer & the thin washer has the kick gear against it which you'll be putting on next. It's a fiddle because when you fit the basket you might have to lift it if you miss the kick gear dogs for example & if it's not your lucky day it'll pull the spacer up & you can guarantee that flat bearing will drop behind & get trapped. They did away with that idea in later design motors which was a good plan.  I'll check in later. Dale does just the best videos & descriptions but as he said he's unfamiliar with those motors--but he gets the in the end & goes to great lengths to explain it all.

Just edited my post maybe more than once as keep forgetting things or predictive text has it's own ideas haha.

Gusto, it's okay to look at how things are done on other models. But you can't always use that info to get your model put together correctly!  For example, I know I can find instructions in a Chevy repair manual that will work to assemble a part on a Ford.  But that doesn't mean everything is the same.  Same with torque specs.  

Here's some things that might help.  Note that what Yamaha calls the "bearing" is often TWO parts as RT325 has described.  A flat roller bearing and a thin washer.  That thin washer is not listed as a Thrust Washer nor is it always drawn in the exploded parts drawings.  Below are some pics that might help. 






The "bearing" line in the cutaway view is pointing at the thin washer that is part of the bearing.  The roller part is drawn just to the left.  Both of those together assembled in that order are considered the "bearing".