So after doing leak down tests and vacuum test on dt2 I replaced the carb spacer gasket and put everything back together and it won't start. It has spark, I don't think that it is getting fuel to the cylinder as I pulled the plug (brand new) and it was dry.  I have a new needle valve in the carb and have cleaned and gone through it a few times now. I am going to spray a little gas in the spark hole later today and am hoping that gets it going but if I doesn't I'm not sure what to do. I also have to order an exhausted gasket but I don't think that will affect it starting.

so is gas flowing thru the new needle    hook up the fuel line with the float bowl off and see it gas is coming thru the needle and that it shuts off when the float arm rises.  Make sure the choke circuit is clean also  If gas is actually getting by the needle and the choke circuit is clean there should be gas on the spark plug even if the main jet and the pilot are plugged
Doug

I had a similar issue recently. Make sure you have an extra fuel filter after the tank filter. I spent a lot of time cleaning the carb only to pull in sediment that bypassed the petcock.  Run wire through all the accessible passages on the carb. Those passages are small and critical. May not be related but everything improved once I changed the crank seals. My wet side seal was completely out and I have a hard time not believing it affected vacuum for the carb to pull fuel in this is basic stuff but hope it helps. 

Can you feel it suck if you put hand over the carb mouth wile someone kicks it with throttle open. Pull the main jet bung in the side of the bowl & see if the bowl has fuel in it. Sorry, not read the whole story just now. Spark, fuel, compression, crank seals in place, timing in the ball park--gotta go.

After putting a little gas in the spark hole it started in 3 kicks. The problem is, the bike redlined immediately and I had to hit the kill switch. My carb screws are set to spec. I'm thinking the throttle slide might be stuck but idk how to tell after I screw the cap on. If it isn't that I'm not sure

Its stuck for sure. Gotta feel it hit the bottom while screwing the cap on if the cable has clearance. Check cable free play at the adjuster on the carb cap, If you have half an inch then the slide isn't down. But is it stuck or just missed the guide pin. If the carb flange nuts are overtightened it'll cause sticking on early carbs. Got to feel it working by opening & closing throttle fully a few times with a Clunk on the bottom & a feeling of fully topping out on the cap when wide open. Also choke only works at kick speed with a closed throttle.

Hmmm okay, I can hear a clunk but maybe it's not it hitting the bottom, I've been meaning to change throttle cable anyway so maybe ill just do that and try and reset it all. Strange that over-tight bolts can cause sticking. Thank you
 

Yes on the flange carbs overtightening for 50 years warps the flange ears & pulls them around a small amount which in turn pulls the slide body out of round. Doesn't take much.

I had a recent issue with a DT1E carb slide binding when the flange bolts were properly snugged up...stuck on full throttle will wake you up!  My carb had an o-ring groove, but no o-ring listed on BOM but I tried it anyhow and the compression forces made it worse.

I ended up buying a new plastic insulator block, new gaskets, and then filed the flange with a big file until it cleaned up nicely.  No more bind.
 

I just installed a new carb spacer although I don't have a torque wrench to get the bolts to spec.. maybe I should get on that. Tonight I installed new cables and it went fairly smoothly. When I pull to full throttle the grip still doesn't come all the way back but I do hear the slide hit the bottom but there's still more room for the grip to get back to the original position.  Also, any way someone can help me understand the free play at the carb? Im not quite understanding where the free play should be found. Hoping to get it all adjusted and running tomorrow.