Unfortunately though, I broke my golden rule for some reason last night.  Never go on the internet after a few beers.  Seemed like a good idea at the time.

From previous experience, it is not a case of will you make a jackass of yourself, it is a case of when will you make a jackass of yourself.  

Mike. I was overly harsh in my response to you last night.  I am sorry if it offended you.  I have no excuse to offer, I should not have logged on in such an advanced state of pure pissheadedness.  

To atone for my indescretion I will point out the why, not just the how.

Diagnosing problems should always be done in small logical steps.

1. We are making assumptions that the pump was working fine before you removed the clutch cover and nothing was disturbed with the pump itself, so it should still be working and the problem is within the drive components that have been disturbed.

However you say that the pump strokes when you press on the plunger, which tends to rule out the problem with the drive...a new bit of info.
So this nugget of info leads us back to the pump and the fact that it probably was not happy before you took off the cover. Another new bit of info.

As said, follow my earlier tips. If the plunger is not stroking with the pulley pushed back into the max delivery position, ensure that the problem is not within the drive components that were disturbed. 
Once you are satisfied that they are correct, then you can look to the pump. 

2. Before removing the clutch cover again and having to drain the oil, remove the oil pump and rotate the engine.  Does the worm shaft turn when engine is turning and is it impossible to turn the shaft by hand when the engine is stopped?  If so, the drive is good. Refit pump and move to next step.

3. You need to determine if the plunger is stroking or not.  If not, the pump needs looking at.  If it is, happy days.  Pushing on the plunger with a finger does not help the binary choice of yes or no.  There can be no "maybe" with a lubrication pump hidden from sight under a cover.

So with engine running, push back the pulley.
Is the plunger stroking? 
Yes.  Great, you have a working pump element.
 No.   You have a pump in need of rebuild.  Either the plunger is sticking, the plunger cam guide pin is broken/missing or the plunger return spring broke.

4. With pump bled and engine running, pulley in max delivery position and plunger stroking..
Is oil being pushed up the supply line? 

Yes.  Great you fixed the problem.  You just need to confirm sufficient output by measuring it over 200 pump strokes.
                                                                       
​​​​​No.  You have a bad pump outlet check valve, a completely shot plunger oil seal, or insufficient oil reaching the pump.

Good morning,
Tinkicker - no problem! People ask for advice then ignore it or do something else… what’s the point in that! Anyway no worries and no hard feelings:-)
That said, I fiddled again before seeing your long and helpful response, so when home may retrace some of my steps…
To update whilst i sit in car waiting for wife in shops, noting I did not see latest advice beforehand
I took the clutch cover off and engine side nothing untoward noticed.
Removed the pump and all bits seemed to be as they should be including the pin correctly located.
I wrapped some tape around the end of the pump shaft to protect it, and gently / slowly rotated it clockwise with my battery drill.
The plunger does not plunge.
Reading the advice… this is what i want to recheck…
“If the plunger is not stroking with the pulley pushed back into the max delivery position”
Does this mean rotate the oil cable pulley as if on full throttle?
Thanks again for advice, and disappointed / frustrated I did not check for an updated post before diving in again.
Mike

 

I am (probably) an idiot…

Tin kicker told me in last day or so…
Engine builder months ago…
And i did it when i ran up engine for first time…
Hold the oil cable cam wide open when priming the system.
Just got home, did my drill test with cam wide open, and plunger plunges.
Think i need to put it back together carefully and check it again with cam wide open.
What a muppet.
Mike
 

Ok i wrote most of this below thinking you were turning it the wrong way,--then i woke up. But i'll leave it even if it makes me look a bit 'more' stupid haha. Might be something good in there.
'Deet' if your reeding this put me in line please if i'm steering them wrong. Sorry i keep editing to improve.

Trying to visualise which way the pump shaft turn & i can imagine it turning anti clock, but 'no', because its driven by the crank which goes forward it drives pump which spins backwards--clockwise from where your driving it.
Pump internal gear has spring loaded pins so in the old days with the plastic white primer wheel you couldn't turn it backwards. But that's when it's bolted on the motor. But turning it by plastic wheel i guess its continualy slipping over the pins & manualy pumping.
So now i'm backed into a corner & lost.
On thinking, if you spun the drill with pump in hand i don't think it would matter off the bike. The plunger would do its plunger thing regardless.
But then again if it had enough internal drag to skid the gear over the pins if turning the wrong way whichever that way is now i'm lost--the plunger wouldn't plung.
Bottom line has to turn backwards which you did so pins must drive it if they're there.
I wonder if it's been apart & the pins & springs are missing--they jump out & hide. So the internal big gear wheel would just revolve, not driving.
If you hold that cable roller around like open throttle or just depress it on where it revolves--same result--then gear pins must be missing if it doesn't pump the plunger when spun clockwise by drill. Bit dodgy without the supporting bush but ya only going slow so i know you know what you're doing. Just keep it square on or knock the bush out of the case & fit for shaft support,
You might be able to view the driven wheel with shaft out & get an idea iit turning & going nowhere. Get you're ittle finger under it maybe.

Sorry i'm slow typing & Mikek-uk updated.
So i gather the pin is there for the cable cam to ramp up.
Don't forget to check you minimum stroke like 10 thou or maybe give 15 as it only gets minimum stroke up to probably 1/4 throttle.
You can see when it starts to ramp up & away to increase stroke.
If the pump roller alignment marks are close then carb should start lifting at the same time as the pump cable cam moves if lower carb cable & the pump cable are set right.
Its interesting--or not--how little oil they can get away with in a gentle situation like farm bikes before wreckless kids came along.
Our AG100's in NZ at my work would often come in with a rusted broken oil pump cable after years of neglect.
So pump had gone back to idle stroke & stayed minimum stroke right up to full revs.
Generaly they ran the cleanest & exhaust was nice brown, no dripping oil.
But that was elderly farmers riding them bringing the cows home & just not going hard out.

“If the plunger is not stroking with the pulley pushed back into the max delivery position”
Does this mean rotate the oil cable pulley as if on full throttle?


As the cable pulley rotates, it engages with a guide pin.  The pulley has a ramp that on further rotation comes into contact with the guide pin. Once the pulley has rotated past the ramp, it is at max pump stroke.
This ramp forces the entire pulley down its shaft,  to the left towards the pump body as it rotates.  It is returned back up the shaft when throttle is released by a return spring.

You can do the same without needing to turn the pulley, just by pushing the pulley to the left against its spring till it stops.  

Sorted I think. Simply, I didn’t hold the oil cable pulley wide open during my faffing about (which i was repeatedly advised to do). With the penny finally dropping on this and after putting it all back together, it pumped through nicely.
I haven’t measured the flow yet, but at least I am satisfied that it is working.
I’ve learnt a lot over last few days, but wasted quite a lot of your time writing considered / helpful advice.
My apologies.
Maybe this thread will help someone else one day.
But irrespective…
What a muppet!
Thanks,
Mike
 

Ya all good but be sure its pumping minimum or at l,east something at idle on a closed throttle because i thought you said nothing was moving initially but minimum movement isn't easy to see, like 10-15 thou except you should see oil slowly creeping up the tube or if you held it vertical it should drip a very small amount welling up in the end fitting.
Pulses are slow at idle but finger on the pump shaft & you should feel when it moves.