Great work! Congratulations!!!

Hey all. I finally got my XL175 done and sold and made a nice profit to dump into my DT1,2,3 fund. I've been working on the "little white ballet bike" (as my wife calls it) for the last few days. I received my piston kit from Yamabits and took it and my cylinder down to Mott's Machining here in Edmonton to have a re-bore done. 2 day turnover, $100.00 bucks and job done. I'm hoping to clean it up and get it painted today. My new clutch internals came in from Yamaha OEM and they have been soaked in oil and installed. while polishing the cases on that side I decided to take the time to remove most of the casting mould lines. The previously severely scarred pieces turned out really nice in my opinion. I did the same on my triple trees and feel it really makes a difference to the look of the bike. These pieces were designed to look good and function well by a passionate design team and I feel that removing all of the casting marks honours their original intent. My new oil pump is installed and it was a nice personal moment adding the appropriate fluids to the crankcase and the autolube tank. I've started looking at the carb. It's calling to me. Uh oh.

So I took the carb apart yesterday and, of course, what a black gooey mess. All of the jets were cloggedand needed a long soak to finally get cleaned out. Everything is now spotless and the needle looks nice and clean with no corrosion. I've ordered all new o-rings, seals and gaskets from Yamaha. They will be in in a week so hopefully the carb will be all daisy fresh soon.
I picked up my piston but I need a bit of advice on the process of gapping the rings and installing them. Could someone explain the best process for this?

Take a ring and put in the top of the bore and push it down with the head of the piston to a mid point between top of bore and the exhaust port. Using the piston makes sure that the ring is square in the bore. Measure gap with a feeler guage. Ring end gap specs should be onsite somewhere. If thats all good, detemine which way up the ring is meant to be. Should be in manual.
Some have a mark on the ring to indicate up. Now the fun part, I usually hold the piston in hand but you may want to hold it in something... gently.
I put one end of the ring against the pin in the ring groove then using one thumb to open the ring up use other thumb to work the ring around and down over the head of piston. Move that ring to bottom groove and start again. Hope that helps

I was curious what the gap tolerances should be.

You just need a shiny new ignition now :-) :-) :-)

www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.s...Electronics/TY_Parts

SlowPoke wrote: I was curious what the gap tolerances should be.

If you can't find the TY specs and someone else doesn't have them, I would be very comfortable using the DT175 ring end gap specs.

Thanks Mark. That makes sense. It's my understanding that the piston is almost a dt175 piston anyway.

Rexs Speedshop wrote: You just need a shiny new ignition now :-) :-) :-)

www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.s...Electronics/TY_Parts

.......and, of course, you are right. So perfectly right.

Hi Racerclam.
What mods do you recommend on the TY175C?
Thanks