Makotosun wrote: Try a quick shot of starting fluid into the spark plug hole, put it quickly back together then kick and see if you get any life out of it.

If so, we will know it is not timing, but fuel. I have had cases where when I did the above, it fired and created enough engine vacuum to pull in fuel through a somewhat plugged carb and would run, albeit badly. I don't say to use starting fluid much, but in this case it can be a quick tool for diagnosis.

I agree... it can be used just for testing without any ill effects.

If you understand how the oil pump works, you will understand why this is not a problem.
Under normal conditions, when you start your engine, it is going to take a few seconds before the oil from the pump starts mixing with the fuel/air charge coming from the carb.

I think the in the "older days" WD40 was alot more flammable. : We have a CAT All Terrain Forklift at work. I told them I suspected the fuel injection pump went out. They tried using WD40 and it didn't fire. I brought in a can of starting fluid and it fired. I replaced the fuel injection pump and it ran. I like using starting fluid on both gas/diesel engines only with 1 shot (not extended long term use). I use it to by-pass fuel systems only for testing purpose.

Dave - you bring up a good point: starting fluid lacks lubrication, but also Either/starting fluid will cut the oil (Good at cleaning oil stains). the cylinder walls are lubricated by engine oil and spraying starting fluid to start it (repeatedly) is bad on the engine as the rings will wear out quicker. When the engine will only start with ether, due to rings wearing out and losing compression, it is known as an "ether dependent engine" . This most commonly occurs on diesel engines. I personally don't mind doing a light shot once just to see if it fires. The military loves starting fluid, some of our vehicles will auto-inject it when the temperature's gets cold enough. Glow plugs + Ether at the same time is a bad deal

I'm on the starting fluid side as well. You can tell in a hurry, if the engine won't even try to start at all with a shot starting fluid, then you have more work to do. A shot is all it takes, if the engine will start, it's usually 2nd or 3rd kick.

It woud seem although I've bought and used an off brand I have got one of the good ones? at least quality control wise? HAHA

haven't used it yet, but I hope it passed the QC check... I bought this cheap one

I'm working on an LT3 and was pointed to this thread about the puller. I just ordered my Motion Pro Model 08-0026 from ebay for $12.59

I'm looking forward to getting it so I can check/change the points on this bike. Hopefully get some fire going so I can get it running.

If you need the puller, here's the link. Puller!

I bought one on ebay for $8. Worked perfect.... Be sure to get reverse thread

Paint the thread directions on the flywheel with some white paint; crank nut is RH thread and inner thread for puller is LH.
Being a burned out geezer that can't remember nothing inspires me to great ideas like that.