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Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy

  • Dave The Wave
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Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy was created by Dave The Wave

Yesterday I had my clutch rod/sprocket cover repaired. Today I cleaned all the grease & crud from the Clutch Push Lever Assy. and here's what I found:

I'm sure that large nylon gear isn't supposed to have a BIG crack in it. Is there a replacement gear available? Hopefully there's one available that is metal - not nylon. I'm assuming the set bolt in the center (Phillips head) has to come out before the special nut can come off. My bolt doesn't seem to want to budge. I guess I'll have to soak it in Kroil. I would appreciate any advise you can give me.
Last edit: 10 Jan 2018 10:36 by Dave The Wave.
10 Jan 2018 10:34 #1

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Replied by Enduronut on topic Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy

.

The thing is welded together . . . it was never meant to come apart.
Also, the nylon piece was poured and molded directly around that bolt looking stud . . in other words, it can not be slide off.

There are a few that show up on eBay every now and then, but they are rare, and very expensive
Also, there'ss a guy that makes a reproduction of these in both steel and nylon . . . for a little bit less then the originals.

You may be surprised the hear that ... even though its got a pretty good crack in it, many times they can be cleaned, lubed, and will still work just fine as is.

I'll see if I can find a link to the reproduction piece I mentioned! . . . Edit: yes, that's the one 1971DT250 just posted below
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Last edit: 10 Jan 2018 11:08 by Enduronut.
10 Jan 2018 11:04 #2

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Replied by 1971DT250 on topic Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy


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Replied by Dave The Wave on topic Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy


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Replied by 1971DT250 on topic Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy

I replace the screw and nut when replacing the actuator. They are usually rusted and damaged from previous owners trying to adjust them. Also replace the push rod seal (93109-07009) while you are in there. The ball that is inside the engine can roll out while you are not looking (item #13 in the parts diagram 93505-16006-00) with the push rod and seal removed.

To adjust: Loosen the cable adjuster on the perch. Loosen the nut on the actuator. Turn the screw so that there is no play in the screw and back it out 1/8 of a turn. Hold the screw with a screwdriver (JIS from Vessel). Tighten the nut. Then adjust the cable.

If too much tension is on the adjuster or cable the clutch will slip especially at speed or under hard acceleration.

And while you're in there, how are the clutch plates? and clutch basket? and gear shift lever and shaft splines? and ..........
The hours spent riding my Enduros is not deducted from my life span.
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10 Jan 2018 14:14 #5

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Replied by Hammer on topic Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy

Dsve,

a search on here will show you that, besides replacing it with an original unit, there are at least two other options for a permanent fix. One, using a unit from an R5, was what PaintrBill and I used, and there is another that a few have used. This is an always problematic part that needs to be addressed. I liked my solution, because the replacement is metal, and it lasts forever.

Ride and enjoy it!

Hammer

Also I heard the voice of the Lord, saying, Whom shall I send, and who will go for us? Then said I, Here am I; send me. Isaiah 6:8
Who, More than Self, His Country Loved.
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11 Jan 2018 00:36 #6

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Replied by Dave The Wave on topic Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy


Thanks for your info but I need a little help. You said you used one from an R5.........but.... I don't know what an R5 is. Also you eluded to another fix "that a few have used" but didn't give any details on what it was. Please advise.
11 Jan 2018 00:58 #7

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Replied by MarkT on topic Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy

A short time ago the actuator you have was made of "almost unobtainium" and a NOS or very good one often sold for hundreds of dollars.

Yamaha R5 was the precursor to the Yamaha RD350... Several have adapted the R5/RD350/RD400 actuator assembly (Some of the Yamaha XS models also use the same actuator) to fit the DT/RT cover... requires minor machining to make it fit your bike.

Here is a link to a new reproduction RD/XS actuator: www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-clutch-push...0-0-91401-10010.html

The main difference between the two is the DT/RT type has a plastic worm gear in a metal guide and the RD/XS type has a metal worm gear in a plastic guide which seems to be stronger... and of course the price... although the "price gap" has narrowed significantly now that DT/RT reproductions are being made.

Search "clutch actuator" and you'll find dozens of posts on the topic.

:Buds
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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11 Jan 2018 04:26 #8

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Replied by asco on topic Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy


Hammer, I also hear that voice often as well.

One of the things that makes that side cover "so expensive in some peoples eyes" is the obsolete part of the actuator. In your case I would suggest finding a suitable generic aftermarket replacement and try that first. This has been discussed..

That motorcycle is "a wonderful tribute to your brother, and honestly I feel he is with you every step of the way!"

asco
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1971 CT1-C (BRANDY)
1970 DT1-C (MONICA)
1972 AT2M (ZIFFLE)
1970 CT1-B (HULK)
1971 DT1E (GINA)
1970 CT1-B (CLIDE)
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Last edit: 11 Jan 2018 07:18 by asco.
11 Jan 2018 07:18 #9

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Replied by Dave The Wave on topic Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy

I went out this morning to disassemble the actuator to see what kind of condition the screw and nut were in. Upon removing them I discovered what looked like a ball-bearing in the actuator. Check out this picture:


The ball-bearing moved easily back and forth in the actuator. However, I don't believe it belongs there. In a recent comment from 1971DT250 he talks about a ball-bearing that belongs on the far side of the clutch rod and has a tendency to roll out. I took a punch and tapped it lightly and the ball-bearing came right out. See picture #2


I have a feeling that it may have rolled out when my brother wasn't looking and when he came across it he looked around and decided it must have come out of the actuator and inserted it "back" (in his mind). I just need to know for sure that a ball-bearing does not belong in the actuator.

The screw and nut are pristine so I plan to reuse them. I have decided to get the after-market replacement recommended by Enduronut and 1971DT250
11 Jan 2018 08:50 #10

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