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TOPIC: Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy

Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy 10 Jan 2018 10:34 #1

  • Dave The Wave
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Yesterday I had my clutch rod/sprocket cover repaired. Today I cleaned all the grease & crud from the Clutch Push Lever Assy. and here's what I found:

I'm sure that large nylon gear isn't supposed to have a BIG crack in it. Is there a replacement gear available? Hopefully there's one available that is metal - not nylon. I'm assuming the set bolt in the center (Phillips head) has to come out before the special nut can come off. My bolt doesn't seem to want to budge. I guess I'll have to soak it in Kroil. I would appreciate any advise you can give me.

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Last Edit: by Dave The Wave.

Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy 10 Jan 2018 11:04 #2

  • Enduronut
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.

The thing is welded together . . . it was never meant to come apart.
Also, the nylon piece was poured and molded directly around that bolt looking stud . . in other words, it can not be slide off.

There are a few that show up on eBay every now and then, but they are rare, and very expensive
Also, there'ss a guy that makes a reproduction of these in both steel and nylon . . . for a little bit less then the originals.

You may be surprised the hear that ... even though its got a pretty good crack in it, many times they can be cleaned, lubed, and will still work just fine as is.

I'll see if I can find a link to the reproduction piece I mentioned! . . . Edit: yes, that's the one 1971DT250 just posted below
.
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Last Edit: by Enduronut.

Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy 10 Jan 2018 11:04 #3

  • 1971DT250
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These are newly manufactured and very well made:



I have several in mine. After 40+ years the nylon cracks causing it to bind. You can still get the screw and nut from different eBay sellers.
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The hours spent riding my Enduros is not deducted from my life span.

Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy 10 Jan 2018 12:32 #4

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1971DT250 wrote: These are newly manufactured and very well made:



I have several in mine. After 40+ years the nylon cracks causing it to bind. You can still get the screw and nut from different eBay sellers.


That's good news - thanks for the link. Just for my understanding: I assume the center screw (I believe is called the Set Bolt) with the Phillips head is supposed to screw in and out for proper clutch adjustment and the "special nut" holds the setting in place. If this is correct, if I am able to get them out I can use them with the item on the link you provided because that link doesn't show these items as part of what they're selling. Here's my original question worded better: Do you adjust the clutch with the nut and then lock it in with the screw or do you adjust the clutch with the screw and lock it in with the nut? (sorry I'm so uninformed) but I'm always ready to learn.

Does anyone know how to correct my spelling on the title of this post??? I know how to spell "Broken" but my fingers had some sort of spasm and typed "Briken", ...duh!!!

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Last Edit: by Dave The Wave.

Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy 10 Jan 2018 14:14 #5

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I replace the screw and nut when replacing the actuator. They are usually rusted and damaged from previous owners trying to adjust them. Also replace the push rod seal (93109-07009) while you are in there. The ball that is inside the engine can roll out while you are not looking (item #13 in the parts diagram 93505-16006-00) with the push rod and seal removed.

To adjust: Loosen the cable adjuster on the perch. Loosen the nut on the actuator. Turn the screw so that there is no play in the screw and back it out 1/8 of a turn. Hold the screw with a screwdriver (JIS from Vessel). Tighten the nut. Then adjust the cable.

If too much tension is on the adjuster or cable the clutch will slip especially at speed or under hard acceleration.

And while you're in there, how are the clutch plates? and clutch basket? and gear shift lever and shaft splines? and ..........
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The hours spent riding my Enduros is not deducted from my life span.

Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy 11 Jan 2018 00:36 #6

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Dsve,

a search on here will show you that, besides replacing it with an original unit, there are at least two other options for a permanent fix. One, using a unit from an R5, was what PaintrBill and I used, and there is another that a few have used. This is an always problematic part that needs to be addressed. I liked my solution, because the replacement is metal, and it lasts forever.

Ride and enjoy it!

Hammer

Also I heard the voice of the Lord, saying, Whom shall I send, and who will go for us? Then said I, Here am I; send me. Isaiah 6:8
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Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy 11 Jan 2018 00:58 #7

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Hammer wrote: Dsve,

a search on here will show you that, besides replacing it with an original unit, there are at least two other options for a permanent fix. One, using a unit from an R5, was what PaintrBill and I used, and there is another that a few have used. This is an always problematic part that needs to be addressed. I liked my solution, because the replacement is metal, and it lasts forever.

Ride and enjoy it!

Hammer

Also I heard the voice of the Lord, saying, Whom shall I send, and who will go for us? Then said I, Here am I; send me. Isaiah 6:8


Thanks for your info but I need a little help. You said you used one from an R5.........but.... I don't know what an R5 is. Also you eluded to another fix "that a few have used" but didn't give any details on what it was. Please advise.

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Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy 11 Jan 2018 04:26 #8

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A short time ago the actuator you have was made of "almost unobtainium" and a NOS or very good one often sold for hundreds of dollars.

Yamaha R5 was the precursor to the Yamaha RD350... Several have adapted the R5/RD350/RD400 actuator assembly (Some of the Yamaha XS models also use the same actuator) to fit the DT/RT cover... requires minor machining to make it fit your bike.

Here is a link to a new reproduction RD/XS actuator: www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-clutch-push...0-0-91401-10010.html

The main difference between the two is the DT/RT type has a plastic worm gear in a metal guide and the RD/XS type has a metal worm gear in a plastic guide which seems to be stronger... and of course the price... although the "price gap" has narrowed significantly now that DT/RT reproductions are being made.

Search "clutch actuator" and you'll find dozens of posts on the topic.

:Buds
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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250

Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy 11 Jan 2018 07:18 #9

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Hammer wrote: Dsve,

a search on here will show you that, besides replacing it with an original unit, there are at least two other options for a permanent fix. One, using a unit from an R5, was what PaintrBill and I used, and there is another that a few have used. This is an always problematic part that needs to be addressed. I liked my solution, because the replacement is metal, and it lasts forever.

Ride and enjoy it!

Hammer

Also I heard the voice of the Lord, saying, Whom shall I send, and who will go for us? Then said I, Here am I; send me. Isaiah 6:8


Hammer, I also hear that voice often as well.

One of the things that makes that side cover "so expensive in some peoples eyes" is the obsolete part of the actuator. In your case I would suggest finding a suitable generic aftermarket replacement and try that first. This has been discussed..

That motorcycle is "a wonderful tribute to your brother, and honestly I feel he is with you every step of the way!"

asco
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YAMA-LAND RESTORATIONS
CASTAIC MOTORCYCLE SALVAGE
MINIBIKESERVICE@AOL.COM CUSTOM MINIBIKE (RALPH) 1978 DT100 (ELLEN) 2002 110cc XR PAX RACING 1971 125cc AT1-C (DOROTHEA) 1971 175cc CT1-C (ELSA) 1971 175cc CT1-C (BRANDY) 1970 250cc DT1-C (MONICA) 1974 DT 360cc (CROSSEYED MARY)
Last Edit: by ASCO.

Broken Clutch Push Lever Assy 11 Jan 2018 08:50 #10

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I went out this morning to disassemble the actuator to see what kind of condition the screw and nut were in. Upon removing them I discovered what looked like a ball-bearing in the actuator. Check out this picture:


The ball-bearing moved easily back and forth in the actuator. However, I don't believe it belongs there. In a recent comment from 1971DT250 he talks about a ball-bearing that belongs on the far side of the clutch rod and has a tendency to roll out. I took a punch and tapped it lightly and the ball-bearing came right out. See picture #2


I have a feeling that it may have rolled out when my brother wasn't looking and when he came across it he looked around and decided it must have come out of the actuator and inserted it "back" (in his mind). I just need to know for sure that a ball-bearing does not belong in the actuator.

The screw and nut are pristine so I plan to reuse them. I have decided to get the after-market replacement recommended by Enduronut and 1971DT250

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