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So today was the day. I've had the
12 volt conversion kit
for my 78 DT400 for many months - so long I had actually forgotten I had purchased it! The kit was complete except for battery, lighting, horn, bulbs and blinker module.
I had even purchased most of the extra stuff needed - mainly a 12 volt battery (Motobatt MB3U) which is exactly the same size as the stock 6 volt battery on this bike as well as on some of the other later monoshocks.
So first we need to get to the stator under the left engine cover. Off with the socket head screws, remove the plastic left cover and there is our flywheel. Easiest way to pull it off . . .
Make sure you get the nut, lock washer and the heavy washer out of there so your puller can get sufficient threads to not strip it out!
Then I am happy to see a very clean and sanitary stator. The original from 1978.
Pull the three stator screws after marking the orientation of the plate so we don't have to re-time it when we are done.
The stator was quite nice, but the connecting wiring had something to be desired. I had patched this together at the last California Dreamin' when my lights were failing. Looks like the electrical tape really wasn't up to the task.
We pulled everything apart and checked all the wires for damage, finding a small exposed bit on one of the CDI connection wires. A bit of heat shrink fixed that, then it was time to remove the lighting coil (left one) carefully noting where everything was routed and heldo down.
You need to carefully remove the cardboard packing and it reveals a very nicely done lighting coil.
It comes with some nice new mounting screws, however, my originals were nice and shiney, so to keep things looking OEM, I reused my original screws, and mounted up the new coil.
Other than this one has a bit more protective coating, it is difficult to note any different from stock. The back routes as it should and into the new protective sheating.
Everything out to where the blue wire (neutral indicator pickup) comes out uses all original hardware. I ran all of the wires through a layer of black heat shrink tubing, followed by a second layer of same in the area by the chain where I had the prior damage to the harness.
I also eliminated a plastic multiconnector for the lighting, choosing instead to use all new connectors which appear to come from the same source as Vintage Connections which came with the kit. The old connector was very deteriorated, so this will be better for the life of the bike. All wires are correctly color coded except the green wire from the new coil connects to the white wire on the bike side. More on that later.
So next we read the instructions some more. Rex recommends replacing all of your other electrics before commencing the coils replacement, so I figured I needed to do that before replacing the stator and getting ahead of myself. The new Regulator is also a rectifier, and it mounts nicely in the original regulator location on this bike. The new unit is almost exactly sized as the old one, so it fits using the same mounts. I did need a slightly longer mounting bolt, as the unit is thicker than stock where it mounts.
And the new:
You can also see the new battery in place. My wiring is still a bit of a rats nest as I work through some modifications to make things simpler.
The new regulator is also a rectifier, and the stock rectifier sits up under the tank near the coil. To connect into the harness there would require running a pair of wires from the current location to catch the harness connections back to the new unit location. Since the green wire from the stator connects to the white wire on the former rectifier, I simply added a "T" to connect right as it comes an inch from the new unit. The rest of the connections are similar, so I am removing a few bits of stock wiring, and adding a few new. It will all appear stock when done and secured.
After doing that bit of work, the new stator goes back in:
And the new double armored harness snakes back towards the regulator:
You can see how close this thing runs to the chain. Apparently before somehow the securing strap for the harness had broken, allowing the old harness to shift over and down, exposing the cables to the dangers of the chain. This will no longer be a concern with new cable, new armor and a new securing strap.
I also added an
LFS electronic blinker module from Super Bright LED's. Model LFS-1
which is nice because it actually works with 6 volt stuff, and will work with LED bulbs without resistors if you go that route. They are small and mount discretely. With some work you could hide one inside one of the older large blinker cans if you wanted. I have used these on some other bikes and swear by them.
The other thing we did was go with an H4 headlight housing which I had on hand and will use a 30/50 watt Halogen bulb when we go live.
Still a few more things to do before we will be able to do a full on test of the unit, but for now the hour is late and my eyes are closing. More tomorrow hopefully!
The following user(s) Liked this Post: Meis, MarkT, FrankC
The long weekend got a bit away from me, so no new pics.
I got everything hooked up, I think as expected, however I am getting some different readings than expected. Got an email into Marcus.
The system is working, and I have nice bright signals, brake/tail and an H-4 halogen headlight! Wattage is too high as I have the proper bulbs on the way, but it seems to drive the one in there OK. I used an H4 conversion unit I got off of EBay and am quite pleased with it. Built in India, and not DOT marked, it seems to have a decent pattern and was reasonable. Finding a 5 3/4" round, 12 volt headlight is not as easy as I had expected. They exist, but no one stocks them. The rest of the bulbs are readily available.
I did find that my gauges need some love. The high beam indicator lens has come out, and there is a hairline crack in one housing, so I may try to actually open one of these up - more info if I get brave.
I will try to get some video the next couple of days. Hope to,have this one sorted for Hungry Valley!
The following user(s) Liked this Post: RTD2, mdscott
mdscott wrote: Thanks for posting Mako,
if I decide to keep my DT250 long term Ill consider doing the changeover, plus electronic ign.
Note that this conversion will work on the 74-76 DT250/360/400 as well as the 77-79 models.
The big issue on the earlier models will be finding a proper battery that can be made to fit in the limited area available on those models. The 77-79 use a larger battery, which is the same dimensions as the one I used.
So today, I got in some E-bay sourced 35/35 Halogen H4 bulbs (got some backups and for some other conversions down the line). Swapped it in instead of the 55 watt bulb I had in for testing. Today we rode the bikes for an hour or so, fairly hard, and since this bike has the constant on headlight required by the Feds, the system worked the full time.
When I got it home, I had a few other little loose ends to do, so worked until it got good and dark then went for a ride. We live in a fairly wooded neighborhood, with few streetlights, so it was dark.
The headlight gives a nice European style (Hella-like) halogen light pattern. Clean cutoff on low, and quite full on high. Lights things up very nicely - enough that I would feel pretty good out alone in the woods, or on the highway. Good bright blinkers. Everything. I need to replace the horn as it sounds kinda like it has been breathing helium, but good and loud
In any event, I will need to give it a longer term test to see how durable everything is, but for now, this system seems to be well engineered, and does exactly what it is supposed to.
Hopefully when Greg and I get lost in Hungry Valley this time, we will be able to limp home a bit more safely!0
Hello everyone after a long time.
Makotosun, thanks also to this entry. This came just in time for me, because I bought the same Rex's kit mine DT360. It must be installed in the spring.
Then I could put a new ignition. I dream of things like that:
However, if I'm able to put one, or a similar own DT360?
Like that, but the Race-ignition was my former KX500 and I liked it, although I do not have time to use it for long.
The following user(s) Liked this Post: Makotosun, ianjorgensen
Great write up on the install. Sounds like that system is going to deliver some high output lighting and maybe allow for an accessory or two.
I wish I could give Rex's another try because some of their stator packages look good. They kinda burnt me on a deal with one of their new CDI units, still irritates me. But don't let my bad experience sway anyone.
I fitted the Rex stator [ pulsarless ignition] & box, to my other DT400B, I set it at the same marks that I took it off [ my dt250D] , and the engine started in reverse, so I"v tried to Retard the plate, [ numberace times]. and am full back on the slots, and shes kickingback like a mule, and wont start,
I turned stator to the next set of holes, [ 1/3 of aturn] not an offer, .so am back on to the original holes,, , will I have to elongate the slots, -to retard it farther, , instructions are , get it running then strobe it