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TOPIC: Case clearcoat or not?

Case clearcoat or not? 10 Sep 2014 13:16 #1

  • mdlifcrisis
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I cant seem to get a glossy clear finish on my engine covers using Duplicolor engine clear coat. I just had to re-strip last nights work Boo Hoo . I don't know if its the So. Fl. humidity or my poor skills but it just comes out dull and cloudy. Im about ready to just leave the metal polished and bare. Maybe Im putting it on too heavy? Which clear coat do you recommend to try? Ive got the polishing technique worked out.. Just cant seem to protect it and keep it shiney

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Case clearcoat or not? 10 Sep 2014 22:43 #2

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You might consider trying Duplicolor Wheel paint in Clear. Part number HWP103

The wheel paint is designed to work on such surfaces and may be better suited to the nasty environment the motor gets exposed to. I have not tried it for that purpose, but it would seem like an option worth trying?

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Case clearcoat or not? 11 Sep 2014 03:28 #3

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Thanks Mako. Ill look it up.

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Case clearcoat or not? 11 Sep 2014 06:24 #4

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One thing you might try if you haven't already is to use white flour... the baking kind... and a clean rag as a final step after polishing. Just pour flour on the cases and rub it around with the rag. The flour will absorb and remove any excess polish and the leftover black aluminum oxide which could be affecting the clear paint.

Using flour as a final step after polishing aluminum is a good idea whether you're clear coating or not...

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Case clearcoat or not? 11 Sep 2014 10:11 #5

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After polishing with Mothers, I wiped it down real well with a microfiber cloth and some wax and grease remover until it was squeaky clean. I don't know. Maybe its a combination of crazy humidity and too heavy coats. It looked like crapola. Its easy enough to strip off so Im gonna give it another try today. This time one light coat and see what happens..

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Case clearcoat or not? 11 Sep 2014 19:53 #6

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Depends on what you want. If you are going to ride the bike, don't waste your time clear coating, it wears off. If you want a show bike use Spraymax 2k. When I was racing CZ's I had the motor polished out till I did my first race and with the mud and stuff it was ruined. A never ending cycle. A total waste of my time to make it look pretty.

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Case clearcoat or not? 29 Oct 2014 10:24 #7

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Yes the cloudiness is the result of spraying in high humidity. If you are wanting to preserve that just-polished look, the product "Sharkhide" is what you want.
I don't mind polishing once, but HATE the constant maintanence. This stuff works and is simple and long lasting.
SHARKHIDE

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Case clearcoat or not? 29 Oct 2014 14:04 #8

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Yes I would clear coat or your polish job won't last, Yamaha did clear coat the engine originally, as already said above you need to degrease the engine from what ever polishing compound or wax you used, that could be one thing causing your cloudiness, also applying to heavy will cause cloudiness, use lacquer thinner or some rubbing alcohol first to degrease the engine.

You should be using a high heat engine clear coat since engines warm up, a good automotive grade clear coat will give best results, but for a rattle can I recommend VHT brand engine clear coat it's the closet I know of you can get to automotive quality paint, it's also the only brand rattle can my local auto body supply will sell, spray light coats make sure you follow recoating directions on the can, recoat till you reach desired shine




Attachment not found


(picture shows red can but is available in clear)

I used VHT gloss black on my frame and clear coated it as well, the clear really made it shine, I also used VHT silver/gray wheel paint on my fenders, it wasn't a perfect match but really close, the wheel paint required a clear coat as part of the paint system or it won't shine.

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Last Edit: by AT3.

Case clearcoat or not? 29 May 2018 07:44 #9

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I found that if I spray too heavy at first the paint makes the aluminum wet and that dulls it to grey and seals it at that color. I have to use very light coats at first sprayed from a distance so the paint was dryer before it hit the metal until it sealed the surface then I could spray heavier without it darkening

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Case clearcoat or not? 29 May 2018 08:32 #10

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It is extremely difficult to get all of the polishing residue off of the cases. I used to do my aluminum wheels and then I would try something like Windex to remove the dark residue.

With that being said I think it's a mistake to try and clearcoat engine side cases.

When I was 15 years old I worked at a brass bed factory and what we used after polishing the brass, was a baked enamel finish. The brass balls were probably cleaned with toluline or lacquer thinner. Then they were dipped and put in an oven at 400° for 30 minutes approximately. It did have a yellow hue but you couldn't see it because it was brass. Again my suggestion polish and then repolish when necessary.

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