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RT3 Compression release assembly

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RT3 Compression release assembly was created by LETSJET

The compression release lever, and cable are missing from my newly acquired RT3. The compression release valve is still in the cyclinder barrel, condition unknown. How about a quick education on this system as I haven't restored one before. I am guessing that the bike was running with no compression release previously. Having just started to go through a few things, new, correct oils, fresh gas, etc. and general services, I won't try to start it until I get the carb off to take a look. But, I'd like to know if I should add a aftermarket compression release, run it without one till I find a oem one for the bike, or is it even needed on the RT3.
Having had my RT2 kick back and a RT1, I will probably get it to my two stroke guy to set it up rather than try to start it up myself. Thinking I should install a generic compression release prior to trying to get it running. 
If the release is RT3 enduro specific I need one, thanks.
07 Apr 2021 11:58 #1

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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic RT3 Compression release assembly

Lever parts should be available on fleabay, CMSNL, Partzilla etc and I'm pretty sure that DEET here (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.) supplies cables.
07 Apr 2021 12:59 #2

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Replied by Mauser on topic RT3 Compression release assembly

Some sort of release is a must have....broken gears confirms this lol even with 1 fitted be careful....I think some fit into the spare plug threads if you didn't want to restore the stock set-up.
Yamaha RT2 360 ~ Honda XR650R ~ Yamaha DT175MX ~ Kawasaki KH400 ~ GPz550

07 Apr 2021 14:20 #3

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Replied by RT325 on topic RT3 Compression release assembly

Just clip it open to make sure it softens the kick & to be sure its not carbon'd up & blocked into the cylinder &/or the hole leading down to the exhaust port outlet. Pull the rubber cover off & you'll see how it works, then somehow simply tie or clip the top moving arm to the bottom cable nipple piece & strong enough to overcome the spring return on the valve. Won't hurt running open. I used to run mine around the farm like that as made it nicer for slow riding. Farm yamaha 175's had an open drilling & so did RD400's, no valve just straight down to the exhaust port outlet. Meant they sounded slightly chuffy at idle but easier to start & easier on the kick mechanism. Make sure your mag flywheel is super tight & points not set wide but less than 15 & over 12 so as not to be over advanced. Even though i recommend one, i don't have a decomp on my current 360 but has a raised exhaust port so less of a sharp kickback or doesn't even do that if i kick it right.
After all that i mean't go order a cable & lever.
Last edit: 07 Apr 2021 18:55 by RT325.
07 Apr 2021 18:54 #4

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