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TOPIC: 69’ DT1 ignition switch test...

69’ DT1 ignition switch test... 15 Mar 2019 23:21 #1

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Ok, so I had a key broken off in my switch when I got the bike. I found a spare key, so I decided to disassemble the switch and remove the broken key shank. So far so good and I put it back together with all the bits correctly fitted with springs, detents, and switch plates. I did the continuity test in the manual.
Position one- black to black with white
Position two: green to white
Red to brown
In position 3 is where I get nothing...
Yellow to white: open
White to blue: open
Red to brown: open

So I took the switch apart again and labeled the contacts and as far as I can tell, no matter which way I rotate this, it’s impossible for those plates to contact across to those test points in position three without those three plates being connected in series with some part that I’m missing. See pic, and if I’m missing something here let me know, or let me know if this test is correct. Thanks in advance!
John
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69’ DT1 ignition switch test... 16 Mar 2019 00:22 #2

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It matters in these switches how you place the white plate in the foreground on the switch plate itself. In the ones I have taken apart, it is possible to put that white plate in the wrong position, still get the switch to turn twice, but not have the correct contacts touching. I reassembled one incorrectly on an AT-1E and had to pull a redo, and then I bought at CT-1C that ran with the key to the left and off was over to the right. Had to take it apart and correct that white plate.
And remember...if a PO has been in there, then there's no guarantee that the way you found it is the way it left the factory...

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69’ DT1 ignition switch test... 16 Mar 2019 01:54 #3

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Take a look at where the white and the yellow connections are, the yellow at 12’oclock and the white at 7o’clock in the picture. Now look at those plates. There’s no way that they can make that connection with that span. The plates can’t reach those two connection points. So either the test is wrong or I’m missing it. It does jumper the pins next to it though.

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69’ DT1 ignition switch test... 16 Mar 2019 04:36 #4

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1969dt1 wrote: ...............................................
In position 3 is where I get nothing...
Yellow to white: open
White to blue: open
Red to brown: open..............................................................


That legend looks incorrect.

Based on what I know about Yamaha wire colors and operation.... When key is in "lights on" the following should be true:

Yellow to Blue (yellow is AC from stator to run headlight circuit, blue is out from key to run headlight circuit)
Green/red to White (green/red from stator for "night battery charge", white goes to rectifier which then goes to battery)
Red to Brown to Blue 2 (red is from battery, brown runs battery-powered items like horn and turn signals. Blue 2=tail)
Black/White and Black - not connected to anything

The "red to brown to blue 2" needs a little explanation... The very early bikes had the taillight run by the AC circuit so the taillight was on with the headlight and only with the engine running. US law changed somewhere around 1969-70 where the taillight had to remain on without the engine running. So Yamaha added a second "blue" wire that goes to the taillight bulb and connects to red (battery) along with the brown when the key is in "lights on" position.

I can't see your wire colors but it looks like you might have a model with two blue wires in the switch? By memory, one is a lighter blue than the other... I think Yamaha called it "sky blue".

RT325 has said a few times that bikes in his part of the world continued to have the taillight run by the AC headlight power and not the battery like they did in the US... so if you have a non-USA model you probably have only one blue.

See if this makes sense?

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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250

69’ DT1 ignition switch test... 16 Mar 2019 17:44 #5

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There are other wires not listed in the test which leads me to believe that it doesn’t fully include this switch. I’m stuck in the control room tonight so if I can find some wiring diagrams online maybe I can make sense of this. The wires coming out of the switch are as follows:

Individual wires:
Red,Blue,White, Black

Wires going to 6 connector plug:
Black with white stripe
Green with red stripe
Brown
Green
Blue with white stripe
Yellow
The sticker on my bike says 1969 but the vin# doesn’t match any of the range of vins I could find on this sites decoder.
I’ll attach the test in the book to the DT1 service manual I recently uploaded, as well as some more pics in case it helps to make any more sense of it.
Thanks in advance!
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69’ DT1 ignition switch test... 16 Mar 2019 18:07 #6

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I'm not sure if you saw my post?

Anyway, with the additional info here's what the all connections should look like:

Off:
Black to Black/White

Position 1:
Red to Brown
Green to White

Position 2:
Red to Brown to Blue
Green/Red to White
Yellow to Blue/White

I might have the Blue and Blue/White swapped... you'll know because only one way would line up. The way I mapped it the Blue would be to the taillight and the Blue/White would go to headlight switch.

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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250

69’ DT1 ignition switch test... 16 Mar 2019 18:28 #7

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Success!!! That’s exactly what I have, thank you for all your help. That test in the book is bogus.
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69’ DT1 ignition switch test... 16 Mar 2019 18:50 #8

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1969dt1 wrote: Success!!! That’s exactly what I have, thank you for all your help. That test in the book is bogus.


Unfortunately there are a lot of errors in Yamaha literature...

The nice thing is they didn't mix up wire colors much from the 1960's through the 1970's so if you know what each color was commonly used for you can figure a lot out without a wiring diagram. (And you can tell when the diagram likely has an error.)

Glad you got it figured out! :likey

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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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