04 Jan 2020 14:29
Carb mods #61
So like I said this was a mild Port job. It pulls the front wheel up throttle only in 2nd but not third. Still hauls the mail with a stronger mid range. Can't say on the top end power right now without a license. Now I'm thinking I need to check the oil pump output because I have very little smoke after it warms up. Sort of a light wisp.
The following user(s) Liked this Post Pillsbury
06 Jan 2020 10:22 06 Jan 2020 21:53 by FrankC.
Carb mods #62
Got the oil pump sorted out. bleed the line again and got a couple of bubbles and what I didn't do before is pull the cable for maximum pump stroke for 3 minutes at 2000 RPM to prime the pump. Forgot to prime it at all. Putting out good oil amount now.
11 Jan 2020 11:44 26 Jan 2020 16:49 by FrankC.
Carb mods #63
So I had a base gasket leak didn't re torque my cylinder base gasket as I should have. Power slowly started ebbing out of it and I really didn't notice it until my idle started running erratically. Power back on baby! Got a good tip here on the forum from Pillsbury- Always retorque after 1st run in, especially with a thicker than stock base gasket. Need to try a pipe on this thing. After honey Doo list I will try to sort the magneto wiring. I think my dc lights may have blown without the battery there as Pillsbury stated could happen, but so worth it for the enjoyment of the bike. I will try to fix them later on brother.
15 Jan 2020 12:23 15 Jan 2020 13:13 by FrankC.
Carb mods #64
Got the magneto wiring sorted. What threw me off is my clymer manual shows 8 wires in the loom from the mag harness, one of them being the s/b (sky blue) wire from the neutral switch. The reality is there.are 5 wires from the stator and one s/b from the neutral. The wires going to the connection also lost some of their color.due to sun exposure. Did not blow any lights thank goodness except the neutral. But the signals don't work as they should, they flicker without a battery.
22 Jan 2020 17:24 25 Jan 2020 17:40 by FrankC.
Carb mods #65
Got 46 miles on er so far with no problems. The 200 main is a keeper for running around in the mid range. Who knows what it will be for some highway use. Need to replace the oil lines. Hate to have one of them bite the dust. Have one problem though, well not really. I got what I was told one of the strongest lightest non oring chain on the market 13 years ago. With the bike running lousy back then in 1500 miles the chain barely got two clicks on the snail adjusters stretch. So the chain this go around had 2 inches of up and down play to begin with and so in 46 miles ridden were looking at 3 1/2 inches of up and down play. Half of it ridden hard. Happy to have a chain stretching rock crushing engine back. The old bike ran best at its coolest. This one seems to run best with some heat on. Put on some Klemm Vintage stickers on the forks a couple of weeks ago. Look nice. So I think the dt400 pipe is a good pipe for the standard operating rpm, but needs to be more efficient at doing it. The internal batting needs to go and a real rear cone, also any overlapping joint so that it works more efficient in the rpm range it was designed for. Edit- another thing I did was to drill 2 holes in each clutch basket finger to aide lubrication of the clutch discs and a single hole between each of the clutch boss splines. No problems and Vesrah clutch discs feel very good. Also debured the shift drum and forks and related hardware for smoother shifts.
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