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TOPIC: Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H

Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H 16 Sep 2018 10:31 #21

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I did a bit of clean up this weekend. Aside from the cracked rear fender all the plastics are in surprisingly good shape and cleaned up well. I'm on the fence about a DC Plastics repop set. Maybe I'll save the originals and ride with the repops, but $$$!



Seat and tool bag cleaned up nice too, no tears or much wear at all on either...



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Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H 16 Sep 2018 10:46 #22

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Decided to remove the rear wheel and have a look at the brakes, bearings, sprocket, spokes, etc...

Brake shoe completely delaminated on one side. They look original. New shoes ordered...


Wheel bearings came out without much of a fight. Just tilt the inner spacer and gave them a couple taps with a long straight drift. The bearings sounded awful when I initially tested them, they dont look so hot either. I'm guessing they have never been touched...


After an initial scrub and clean to get most of the dried up gunk out, a soak in some kerosene...


After the soak and a blow out with compressed air, they are amazingly smooth now. No play in the bearings whatsoever and they spin freely and very smooth. The seal for the small bearing is NLA but eBay has 'em. All Balls are inexpensive but I've never used them. What do you guys think, repack the originals or go with All Balls?



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Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H 16 Sep 2018 11:28 #23

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That's why so many preach "replace your brake shoes!" A de-laminated shoe can cause the wheel to lock up unexpectedly... and if it's the front wheel and you're at speed when it happens, serious injury can (and has!) happened.

I've had great luck with the All Balls bearing kits... cheap if you shop around and good quality.

Or you could pack yours and just get the seals.

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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250

Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H 16 Sep 2018 11:34 #24

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Seals usually have size on them in mm... ID, OD, thickness... ebay or bearing supply can often get you what you need by the size a lot cheaper than OEM... All Balls seals are also good quality.

Fine for most seals except crank and fork seals... best to get the correct seals for those applications.

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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250

Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H 16 Sep 2018 12:01 #25

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MarkT wrote: That's why so many preach "replace your brake shoes!" A de-laminated shoe can cause the wheel to lock up unexpectedly... and if it's the front wheel and you're at speed when it happens, serious injury can (and has!) happened...


Agreed Mark, this is why I'm going through and doing a "safety check" before I ride it.

I ordered front and rear wheel bearings and fork seals from All Balls. The original bearings will get thrown into my "Original Parts" box.

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Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H 16 Sep 2018 12:49 #26

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Good work!

Just wanted to point out (again) to everyone that even shoes that don't "look" too bad... can come apart. The other shoe in your picture doesn't really look that bad and if both looked like that many people might be tempted to clean them off and reuse them. (Me included... that was a few years ago...before I learned what can happen!)

You posted up a great example of why it's best to replace the brake shoes, period. :Buds
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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250

Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H 16 Sep 2018 17:26 #27

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MarkT wrote: Good work!

Just wanted to point out (again) to everyone that even shoes that don't "look" too bad... can come apart. The other shoe in your picture doesn't really look that bad and if both looked like that many people might be tempted to clean them off and reuse them. (Me included... that was a few years ago...before I learned what can happen!)

You posted up a great example of why it's best to replace the brake shoes, period. :Buds


Excactly. New brake shoes=$20. Trip to the doc=$$$$
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Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H 17 Sep 2018 09:31 #28

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I've got a question or two (or three)....

When I removed the rear wheel bearings the spacer fell out and I'm not sure which orientation it goes back in. Looking at the parts diagram as a guide brings up a couple head scratchers. First, I think I have everything oriented correctly but it looks like the Flange #3 that is pressed on the spacer #2 is on backwards? Im guessing that the flange acts as a seal for the inner part of the bearing. Which brings up another question. Shouldn't the bearings have inner seals? There were no inner seals present when I took them out. Thanks in advance!




See the gap between the flange and bearing, supposed to be like that? Doesn't look right to me


Other side/bearing, no inner seal

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Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H 17 Sep 2018 10:06 #29

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The position on the axle is not all that important, other than to place it near the center of the hub; its function is to hold the tube centered while you pass the axle through it, hitting the hole on the other side easily. So it's a spacer in a concentric sense and not a left to right sense. Assuming you have done your job right and cleaned out the entire inside of the hub, removed all the rust and corrosion from all the assorted parts inside, then there should be no reason for an inner seal. So long as the outer seals are doing their job., nothing can get into the hub.

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Look what followed me home last weekend... '81 IT175H 17 Sep 2018 10:21 #30

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Mothersbaugh wrote: The position on the axle is not all that important, other than to place it near the center of the hub; its function is to hold the tube centered while you pass the axle through it, hitting the hole on the other side easily. So it's a spacer in a concentric sense and not a left to right sense. Assuming you have done your job right and cleaned out the entire inside of the hub, removed all the rust and corrosion from all the assorted parts inside, then there should be no reason for an inner seal. So long as the outer seals are doing their job., nothing can get into the hub.


Got it. I understand the funtion of the spacer, my question was regarding the pressed flange that is on the spacer and near the bearing. On the grease, I understand that nothing (dirt, etc.) can get in from the inside, my question regarding the lack of inner seals is what keeps the grease in?

Edit: OK, so it looks like the flange is there just to keep the spacer somewhat centered in the hub. No inner seals on the bearings, I guess the grease stays in on it's own.
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