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TOPIC: Rear motor mounts will not budge, tips, ticks, suggestions?

Rear motor mounts will not budge, tips, ticks, suggestions? 13 Jun 2018 07:22 #1

  • oblivionnewtonjohn
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Tips, tricks, suggestions to remove rear motor/isolator mounts on a DT100? I've been fighting them for hours.

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Rear motor mounts will not budge, tips, ticks, suggestions? 13 Jun 2018 09:28 #2

  • MarkT
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Remove them from the cases?

My tip: Don't. You will almost certainly destroy them.

If you absolutely must remove them it takes heat and a good press using a pin machined to fit inside the hole as a light slip fit and recessed on the end to clear the center sleeve. I've never been able to hammer them out.
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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250

Rear motor mounts will not budge, tips, ticks, suggestions? 13 Jun 2018 09:33 #3

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MarkT wrote: Remove them from the cases?

My tip: Don't. You will almost certainly destroy them.

If you absolutely must remove them it takes heat and a good press using a pin machined to fit inside the hole as a light slip fit and recessed on the end to clear the center sleeve. I've never been able to hammer them out.

Well great..... I have new ones as one looked kind of gnarly I thought best to replace both. I do not have a press, I will ask on the local Facebook.

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Rear motor mounts will not budge, tips, ticks, suggestions? 13 Jun 2018 10:20 #4

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These are the ones I have dampner . I see they are press fit, but due to their short size compared to the mounting hole, I thought I would be able to catch the lip of the metal, tap out. Nope, no such luck.
Lesson learned. Hopefully, I can find access to a press or machine shop that can safely get them out, press in the new ones.

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Rear motor mounts will not budge, tips, ticks, suggestions? 13 Jun 2018 11:45 #5

  • FrankC
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If they are like my 78 400 there is a lip on the case that prevents using a punch to catch the outer sheath. If i am believing the rear isolation dampers. I got out 2 sets on 2 cases by first drilling out the inner spacer, then drilling out the rubber, then prying the rest of the rubber with screw driver. The outer sheath i scored with a dremmel tool in several places, being careful not to go too far and score the case. Then with screw driver i prised away the sheath like opening a can of spam. It was difficult, but no damage to the bore. If i had to do it again i would do what Mark did. Looks like a lot less work.
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Rear motor mounts will not budge, tips, ticks, suggestions? 13 Jun 2018 12:01 #6

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FrankC wrote: If they are like my 78 400 there is a lip on the case that prevents using a punch to catch the outer sheath. If I am believing the rear isolation dampers. I got out 2 sets on 2 cases by first drilling out the inner spacer, then drilling out the rubber, then prying the rest of the rubber with screw driver. The outer sheath I scored with a Dremel tool in several places, being careful not to go too far and score the case. Then with screwdriver, I prised away from the sheath-like opening a can of spam. It was difficult, but no damage to the bore. If I had to do it again I would do what Mark did. Looks like a lot less work.

that's what I was thinking.
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Rear motor mounts will not budge, tips, ticks, suggestions? 13 Jun 2018 12:01 #7

  • MarkT
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I've had to do it like Frank did... it's not much fun.
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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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