OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates?
Not that all that bad yet - while riding yesterday the clutch occasionally started slipping north of 4500 RPM. I was pretty far from home, but did my best to lay off the throttle and was able to manage pretty well without too much trouble.
I went over a pretty rough spot of road (maybe doing 25-30) and the bike started making a noise that I can only describe as "not good". Like all problems in my life I ignored it and just limped home.
Before I do anything else I'm going to drain the oil and try a different brand, but I've put 2000 miles on the bike over the last couple of months which brings the total mileage to around 10K. I'd hazard that it might be time for a new set of plates, but I won't know if that's all until I get in and have a look.
I read throught the Clymer manual plus this excellent post from Mako and it seems like something I can handle.
I was wondering if anyone could share their experiences with different brands?
It looks like OEM are still available for around $85 with springs, plus plenty of aftermarket parts. Here are just a few I found...
Caltric (eBay) $33.85
EBC DRC Series (Bike Bandit) $46.99 (includes springs)
KG Pro Series (Parts Giant) $56.21
Barnett Kevlar (Barnett Clutches) $176.25 (includes springs)
I'll avoid the cheapest (Caltric) as I've learned that lesson the hard way before...just wondering what your experiences have been?
I did have to fiddle with the stack to get the overall height correct. If you want to just slap in a set of fibers and plates, an aftermarket kit is your best option.
1972 Suzuki TS 185 Sierra
2016 Yamaha WR250R
Pedalcrazy wrote: The clutch is one of the first things I go through when restoring a bike. I've always used Yamaha fibers and steels every time...no matter what the old ones look like. They're made for the bikes. I've considered Barnett but then bought the stock ones. Never had to do a clutch more than the first time. The racers on here will probably have good input.
+1 on that.
By the way, I noticed that the pushrod on the pressure plate was a little loose. Normal?
Some of my prices were way off as my OEM quote didn't include the friction plates. I failed to notice they were NLA so I bought aftermarket.
I spent about $80 on OEM springs/flat plates and another $70 on aftermarket friction plates.
As always you have to be careful when buying parts for these machines and double check that you're getting the exact part needed.
I usually take several photos or a video when I do maintenance, but my neighbor offered to help me swap it out (a process he's done to several bikes several times) so I didn't document anything.
I followed the procedure in the Clymer manual supplemented with Mako's post I remarked on earlier in this thread and it was a breeze. Probably 30-45 mins from start to finish.
The frictions plates I removed didn't look worn out to my eyeball test, but the response from the clutch is noticeably improved and there is no slipping at up to 6K RPM.
I'll note that before I replaced the clutch I did swap out the SuperTech synthetic ATV 10-30 (says it's wet clutch compatible) for Maxima MTL and it didn't resolve the issue. I'm going to stick with Maxima from here on out. I think it's around $3 more per quart which is worth some peace of mind.
Modern oils are designed for automotive use and contain friction modifiers which, while good for cars, can make motorcycle clutches slip.
Always use a motorcycle oil which is JASO rated. This means it is designed for WET motorcycle clutches.