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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates?

03 Aug 2020 14:53 03 Aug 2020 15:19 by Wax.
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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates? #1
I've been burning up the trails on my 1978 DT250 and unfortunately have also been burning up my clutch.

Not that all that bad yet - while riding yesterday the clutch occasionally started slipping north of 4500 RPM. I was pretty far from home, but did my best to lay off the throttle and was able to manage pretty well without too much trouble.

I went over a pretty rough spot of road (maybe doing 25-30) and the bike started making a noise that I can only describe as "not good". Like all problems in my life I ignored it and just limped home.

Before I do anything else I'm going to drain the oil and try a different brand, but I've put 2000 miles on the bike over the last couple of months which brings the total mileage to around 10K. I'd hazard that it might be time for a new set of plates, but I won't know if that's all until I get in and have a look.

I read throught the Clymer manual plus this excellent post from Mako and it seems like something I can handle.

I was wondering if anyone could share their experiences with different brands?

It looks like OEM are still available for around $85 with springs, plus plenty of aftermarket parts. Here are just a few I found...

Caltric (eBay) $33.85
EBC DRC Series (Bike Bandit) $46.99 (includes springs)
KG Pro Series (Parts Giant) $56.21
Barnett Kevlar (Barnett Clutches) $176.25 (includes springs)

I'll avoid the cheapest (Caltric) as I've learned that lesson the hard way before...just wondering what your experiences have been?

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03 Aug 2020 15:05
turbodan
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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates? #2
I went with a used clutch out of a 2005 FZ6 for my 74 360. OE quality, much better materials than the original clutch. Cost $30 on ebay. There is a very good chance your 78 250 uses the same clutch parts.

I did have to fiddle with the stack to get the overall height correct. If you want to just slap in a set of fibers and plates, an aftermarket kit is your best option.

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03 Aug 2020 15:29
darinm
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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates? #3
I've got about 2k miles on a set of ebc ones in my '72 175, Yamaha springs. No slipping yet, though I have not had to slip the clutch that much thanks to the nature of the bike (crawls along quite well in technical terrain).

1972 Yamaha CT2 175
1972 Suzuki TS 185 Sierra
2016 Yamaha WR250R

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03 Aug 2020 15:57 03 Aug 2020 17:11 by Pedalcrazy.
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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates? #4
The clutch is one of the first things I go through when restoring a bike. I've always used Yamaha fibers and steels every time...no matter what the old ones look like. They're made for the bikes. I've considered Barnett but then bought the stock ones. Never had to do a clutch more than the first time. The racers on here will probably have good input.

1978 DT400E
1976 DT400C
1973 RT3
1971 RT1B
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03 Aug 2020 17:21
1971DT250
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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates? #5

Pedalcrazy wrote: The clutch is one of the first things I go through when restoring a bike. I've always used Yamaha fibers and steels every time...no matter what the old ones look like. They're made for the bikes. I've considered Barnett but then bought the stock ones. Never had to do a clutch more than the first time. The racers on here will probably have good input.


+1 on that.

The hours spent riding my Enduros is not deducted from my life span.
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08 Aug 2020 14:40
Red81
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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates? #6
I am wondering the same thing, so I would like to bump this conversation back up. I recently burned out my clutch on my '81 DT 175, and need a new set of clutches and springs.
By the way, I noticed that the pushrod on the pressure plate was a little loose. Normal?

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10 Aug 2020 09:18
Wax
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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates? #7
I can't comment on the pushrod, but I'll circle back around and update the post.

Some of my prices were way off as my OEM quote didn't include the friction plates. I failed to notice they were NLA so I bought aftermarket.

I spent about $80 on OEM springs/flat plates and another $70 on aftermarket friction plates.

www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/tra...c-set/p/16828?m=7097

As always you have to be careful when buying parts for these machines and double check that you're getting the exact part needed.

I usually take several photos or a video when I do maintenance, but my neighbor offered to help me swap it out (a process he's done to several bikes several times) so I didn't document anything.

I followed the procedure in the Clymer manual supplemented with Mako's post I remarked on earlier in this thread and it was a breeze. Probably 30-45 mins from start to finish.

The frictions plates I removed didn't look worn out to my eyeball test, but the response from the clutch is noticeably improved and there is no slipping at up to 6K RPM.

I'll note that before I replaced the clutch I did swap out the SuperTech synthetic ATV 10-30 (says it's wet clutch compatible) for Maxima MTL and it didn't resolve the issue. I'm going to stick with Maxima from here on out. I think it's around $3 more per quart which is worth some peace of mind.
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10 Aug 2020 10:32
akara1
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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates? #8
I used a $20 Chinese banshee clutch kit in my dt360 with no issues

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10 Aug 2020 10:57
run103
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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates? #9
I was having an issue on a DT400 with the clutch slipping when cold. Took it apart and found one of the clutch spring towers missing off the clutch boss so I figured that to be the problem. Put a new clutch boss in with 6 towers and put it together and went for a ride and still inconsistent and slipping. So you have cable free play and you have the up and down adjustment on the clutch actuator under the engine that you adjust with the bolt to the left of the sprocket. You can have free play in the cable but the bolt adjuster by the sprocket may not be letting the center push rod allow the clutch to fully engage. I adjusted it so their is play now at that point and I can smoke the tire multiple times with the front brake locked on. This is with old fiber and steel plates. These are large diameter clutches and other than really sticky clay type mud the clutch should be able to stand tons of abuse
Doug

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11 Aug 2020 00:09
carter6787
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OEM or Aftermarket Clutch Plates? #10
A lot of guys make a mistake with the type of gearbox oil which can lead to clutch slippage.
Modern oils are designed for automotive use and contain friction modifiers which, while good for cars, can make motorcycle clutches slip.
Always use a motorcycle oil which is JASO rated. This means it is designed for WET motorcycle clutches.

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