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TOPIC: DT2 clutch rod seal

DT2 clutch rod seal 13 Mar 2019 10:52 #1

  • blazeone
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Mine has a slow drip. Can I replace the seal in place, no need to split the cases, correct :(

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DT2 clutch rod seal 13 Mar 2019 11:19 #2

  • Mothersbaugh
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Probably your answer is in the tech library, in the manual that is reproduced there...

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DT2 clutch rod seal 13 Mar 2019 11:28 #3

  • RT360Fan
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I'm trying to envision the clutch rod seal

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DT2 clutch rod seal 13 Mar 2019 12:35 #4

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RT360Fan wrote: I'm trying to envision the clutch rod seal


Here you go, and I yes I can just remove the rod and pull the seal and replace.
Attachments:

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DT2 clutch rod seal 13 Mar 2019 12:43 #5

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Mothersbaugh wrote: Probably your answer is in the tech library, in the manual that is reproduced there...


It's not, already checked. The manual glosses over many details. Assumes we are educated tech's. LOL. I knew the answer but was just double checking with the forum.

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DT2 clutch rod seal 13 Mar 2019 12:53 #6

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blazeone wrote:

RT360Fan wrote: I'm trying to envision the clutch rod seal


Here you go, and I yes I can just remove the rod and pull the seal and replace.


Ah ha. Thanks, I didn't see it in the clutch parts diagram, it's there in the Transmission diagram
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DT2 clutch rod seal 13 Mar 2019 14:24 #7

  • 1971DT250
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If the bike is leaning to the left when you pull the rod and remove the seal the ball bearing can roll out, hit the floor and roll into the place in your garage that is connected to the black hole in the universe. If you are not looking or are distracted it may happen without you being aware of it. Then you will put it back together and not be able to get the clutch lever adjusted properly.

This never happened to me, I'm just relating the story as it happened to "a buddy".
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The hours spent riding my Enduros is not deducted from my life span.

DT2 clutch rod seal 13 Mar 2019 16:16 #8

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Blaze, thanks for correcting me. I'm a CT/AT guy with but one 250, and that's a 74, which I have not ridden much and have not torn into yet. I shoulda butted out, I'd have to say! Glad someone knowledgeable got you the answer.

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DT2 clutch rod seal 14 Mar 2019 00:39 #9

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Good thinking about ball bearing falling out as it can on some but on the early 360 it's 8mm same as clutch mushroom so can't escape as pushrod is something like 6.5mm or 1/4 inch rod size by memory. Middle part of the part number says 5-16 which is 5/16 which is 8mm. How's that for a long winded guess after a beer. Number 13 in the link. If though, you find a ball on the floor it might have escaped from out of the clutch lifter/actuator thingy, but it should stay in as is marked with a punch or something to close the hole fractionally to stop it rolling out. Talking the seal--i'm not sure you can buy them singularly & might have to buy a n engine set to get one. If that's the case i'd be tempted to make a sleeve for the case & then find a common seal with the right ID so you can easily get one whenever needed. My crankcase ' where the seals sit' on one of my RT2's had been sleeved to take DT360A crank seals which are pretty common & easy to find & have the same ID as DT/RT series 250/360's. Not sure if any of that helps now i've one finger typed it lol, so take no notice. Anyway--.Link below & number 13.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1973/rt3/clutch

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DT2 clutch rod seal 14 Mar 2019 07:38 #10

  • Pillsbury
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Somehow this is a $25-30 for a $5 seal, I'm still using a 30 year old one that somehow doesn't leak. Is there an alternative?

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1970 DT1-C Grand Prix race bike
1970 DT1-C Street tracker
1968 Honda CL90
1971 Honda Sl 125
1973 Honda CR250
1974 Honda MR-50
1966 Triumph Tiger Cub
1967 Moto Guzzi V700
1970 Suzuki TC90
1947 Mustang
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