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TOPIC: Steering help

Steering help 14 Jun 2019 11:41 #1

  • PigDoc
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I did this a long time ago. When I took the steering head off, upper head bearings went flying. Last time was 1971. But managed to find them all. Today its different. They bounced onto the concrete and into infinity. Can someone direct me on replacements? It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Charlie Francisco

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Steering help 14 Jun 2019 15:00 #2

  • DEET
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It is usually a good idea to state which bike you are talking about.

If it is one of the early enduros, then they are usually twenty-two 3/16" on the top and nineteen 1/4" on the bottom.

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Where the Yamaha Enduro is still a current model...

Steering help 14 Jun 2019 15:40 #3

  • RT325
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Yep, as above but don't try to squeeze one more in as it won't work & you'll wonder why you can't steer it--i'm a learner again & lost my balance--just binds up as no room for the extra, maybe room for half a one, running clearance.

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Steering help 14 Jun 2019 16:28 #4

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And yes, in case you are wondering, they are inch sized and not metric like you might expect. Bicycle shops have them... good hardware stores... or bearing supply... amazon... lots of places.

Number of balls used changes on some models but Yamaha used 3/16" top and 1/4" lower on their bikes for decades.

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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250

Steering help 14 Jun 2019 17:51 #5

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Sorry for not mentioning DT3. Kind of a panic, likely a flashback from 17! Back then it took quite a bit of effort to find replacement bearings in rural Illinois. I bought a demo 1971 DT1 demo in 71. I had it repainted in 72 with a GM dark brown metallic. For some reason I decided to take off retainer bolt after I had the headlight and wings off of it. I don't remember why? But I was 17 which explains a lot!

Today had the parts list and shop manual pages so saw 22- 3/16" top and 19-1/4" bottom. Awesome references. Local hardware in Champaign had both. So now completely disassembled, bearing and races de-greased and upper and lower head primed ready for paint. Only thing a bit rough is the set screw for steering damper. The head is pretty chewed. Final question, wheel bearing grease acceptable?

Thanks

Charlie

PS: I wish I could find the high heat true satin paint I used to use for exhaust. Krylon is absolute garbage, from nozzle to sheen.

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Last Edit: by PigDoc.

Steering help 14 Jun 2019 20:00 #6

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I always use wheel bearing grease. Disc brake wheel bearing grease works great. Still using the same tub from 1992.
The following user(s) Liked this Post: Rick C., PigDoc

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Allrighty Then

Steering help 14 Jun 2019 20:19 #7

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Exhaust paint I use is Rust-oleum High Heat 2000 degree. Part number 248903 Flat Black on my "show bikes. "
Satin....REALLY??? !!!!

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Last Edit: by Rick C..

Steering help 14 Jun 2019 21:57 #8

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I should've said earlier, in my experience the bearing races get pitted or dented over time & replacing them as well as the balls make a nice job of it. At work, when parts were scarce & expensive i used to put the races up in the lathe with reasonably coarse sand paper on some tool i'd shaped up & force it against the race until it removed the dents. Worked good. Nothing worse than lumpy steering & bottom race suffers more probably due to all the weight being taken on it & not helped by doing big jumps & hard landings lol. All the new bikes, mostly small bikes with fork not fitted in the crate, came with steering head wound up that tight--by machine no doubt--that they were lumpy damaged straight out of the crate. Used to back them off a little but was realy all down hill from then on. That was very disappointing to find but never changed.

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Steering help 14 Jun 2019 23:41 #9

  • liferbiker
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I've been using barbeque black for years on cars and bikes. it's flat, is cheap and stays

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Steering help 15 Jun 2019 15:01 #10

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Thanks for heads up on the races. Will definitely check into it. Available?

Charlie

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