NOTICE: If you are not a free registered member of the site, you will not see the photos in the forum, and you won't be able to access our premium member content. Please consider joining our community!
Does anyone know if the throttle/oil pump cables for a dt1 will work on a ct2? I’m having a heck of s time finding cables for my ct2 but my dt1 would look nice with a new set of gray cables. They don’t visually look any different to me. I see someone on eBay started selling reproduction upper,lower, and oil pump cables with the splitter all ready to put on for 50 bucks. Way easier than hunting down cables for a ct2. The ct2 had t.s.k cables and splitter on it. Has anyone ever seen these? The splitter is completely different. It’s flat and rectangular in shape.
It's more than likely the lower throttle cable into the 250 carb will have more free cable than the 175. Not sure about the junction box but compare the j/box on partzilla or something & 'may' look obvious in the drawing. Even the 250 oil pump free cable could be longer due to various things like one case being higher than the other. In saying that if you were handy with a soldering iron or a small gas flame & soldering flux then could slide the bottom carb cable nipple up the right amount & cut off the overhang [takes a bit of practice but not hard] With the oil pump cable you'll have to calculate how much to shorten the inner then do it from the top en where it sits in the junction box slider thingy because chances are the bottom end into the pump cable roller is an alloy nipple [or whatever they use] where the top one is brass or something--probably won't look brass or they coat it with something but will be solderable [is that even a word lol].
Just to edit that thought--what i do to calculate is hook it on then pull on the cable at the bottom--oil pump &/or carb & let it go then see how much free play you have on the outer & remember the outer fits into an adjuster so add that bit into your measurements. If there's any left over at the twist grip after all that then you'll have to shorten that the same way & likely the nipple inside the junction box due to top having that alloy type nipple 'possibly'. The slider in the box is part of the top cable. I was thinking it was part of the bottom cables initialy but anyway--lower cables hooked into the top cable slider so slider will start from as far down the box as possible. Just had another thought which may not work--fit it all on, twist grip & all, then pull the top outer cable & see if the slide tops out in the carb. If it does then you might get away with only shortening the top cable inner. But if the box tops out & carb is only on say 3/4 throttle--then ya buggered, & back to plan A. After reading all that--go get some genuine CT cables lol. Sorry about putting you off!!. Ignore spelling mistakes, not going back again.