Oil pump and oil question
Rare to have it not installed right or a stripped internal geat but you can verify pump is driven by watching it cycle with engine running...
Easiest method is take pump off and send it to DEET for a rebuild.
RT325 wrote: By full throttle do you mean full oil pump cable roller movement giving full pump stroke but motor at a certain fast idle revs?, not revving the tripe out of it [sorry mark], like--just pull the pump cable at the adjuster. Get a sore finger rotating the plastic serrated wheel for a time,--i think.
Stuff like this has been repeated so many times over and over I don't always re-write all the details. And I'm not going to now.
Test 1 is check that the output is in spec with "idle" marks on pump pulley aligned. Certain number of cc per 200 strokes
Test 2 is rotate cam to max... pull cable or rotate throttle grip... doesn't matter, engine isn't running... Just need to make sure pin is at max lift on cam ramp (makes sense when looking at pump) Measure for correct cc's per 200 strokes for max output.
Manuals and specs and bulletins about testing pump are available in the Tech Library.
I use a little dremel rubber sanding drum without sandpaper on a drill... a stud in the drill with a short piece of rubber fuel line pressed on tightly works too... pressed against edge it spins primer wheel very well. Remember the primer wheel only spins one way so pay attention to the arrow on wheel.
Alternative is to run engine on premix and let engine spin the pump. This is a must on bikes after about 1976 when Yamaha started phasing out the primer wheel. Actual output should be tested using either method. And of course if using engine on premix, better to pull pump cable to max than holding WOT with no load.